I. Information
I.A. Essential Information
If you're older than 15, chances are you need a license.
2008 Nebraska Fishing License Information
https://ngpc-permits.ne.gov/NGPC-PS/faces/public/welcome
The regulations differ depending upon where you fish. Good fishermen obey the laws.
2008 Nebraska Fishing Guide (regulations & comprehensive list of public waters):
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/guides/fishguide/fishguide.asp
You can't obey the regulations unless you know what you've caught.
Fish Identification webpage:
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/guides/identification/
Take a look at the Recycling Fish SAFE Angling Kits: http://recycledfish.org/home/?page_id=339. You can pick these up at Wolf Tackle in Lincoln, NE or find out how to buy them online in the link above.
I.B. Useful Information
NGPC's annual fishing outlook
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/pdfs/fishoutlook.pdf
NGPC fish stocking reports
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/guides/fishguide/FGstocking.asp
NGPC public waters guide
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/Fishing/PublicWaters/PublicWatersMap.aspx
Contour maps of Nebraska lakes
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/programs/lakemapping/lakemaplist.asp
Concerned about blue-green algae in some lakes? Read this first:
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=000002
When you catch a fish, you have a decision to make. You can release it so you can catch it again next year when it's even bigger, or you can keep it and eat it.
If you decide to release it, read this first:
http://www.nefga.org/web/article20080615.php
If you want to eat it, you'll need to know how to clean it:
http://www.takemefishing.org/fishing/fishopedia/how-to-fish/preparing-your-catch/cleaning-your-fish
Knots? This organization, Anglers Legacy, has a wealth of useful information for beginners on its website, including nicely illustrated diagrams of fishing knots. Two of the most useful are the "Uni-knot" (sometimes referred to as the "Duncan loop") and the "Surgeon's loop." Both are clearly depicted on this website:
http://www.takemefishing.org/fishing/overview
Another organization you need to know about, Recycled Fish, is "all about catching more and bigger fish by taking care of our fisheries. It's about Catch and Release and Selective Harvest, but it's also about everyday stuff like what we put on our lawns and conserving water and energy." If you take their Sportsman's Stewardship Pledge you'll get a free membership and free Stewardship Kit.
http://recycledfish.org/home/wp-login.php?action=register
I.C. Big Fish and More of 'Em
By Daryl Bauer
What do anglers want?
That's easy-- big fish and more of 'em! I doubt if there is an
angler alive that would disagree with that statement. But how does
one go about catching more big fish?
Catching big fish has
always turned my crank. I am not necessarily talking about the
biggest fish that swim, but big specimens of whatever species I
happen to be pursuing. I can get just as excited, and maybe more so,
pulling an 11-inch bluegill through a hole in the ice as I can
putting a 35-pound flathead in the net. Catching big fish has always
been one of my primary goals; a long time ago I set the goal of
catching at least one Nebraska Master Angler fish per year. I would
like to think that over the years I have improved as an angler, and
as I look back now, I have far exceeded that goal! I will not
proclaim to be THE expert on the subject, but let me share what I
consider to be some strategies that have helped me catch more big
fish than I ever dreamt possible.
Strategy #1
Fish
"big fish" water. One saying I repeat over and over is that big
fish are hard to catch not because they are so smart, but because
they are so RARE. You cannot catch big fish from waters where they
do not exist. Regardless of the species being pursued, you must have
large specimens present if you hope to catch any of them. Having
said that, you do not necessarily have to fish the absolute best
water that has the maximum number of big walleyes or big crappies or
big catfish or big whatever, but you do have to fish water where
there are at least some big specimens present. Of course if you are
able to fish water that has an abundance of big specimens then your
chances will be that much better, but if big specimens are your
target, you absolutely do NOT want to waste any time fishing water
where there are no big specimens present.
How
do you know if there is potential for big fish? In this information
age, anglers have access to more data than ever before. For example,
the Nebraska Game & Parks Commission produces "fishing
forecasts" every year based upon sampling done by their fisheries
biologists (you can see that information here,
http://www.ngpc.state.ne.us/fishing/pdfs/fishoutlook.pdf
).
Biologists
and fisheries managers can be one valuable source of information, but
let me tell you something about all the fish sampling done by those
professionals. Relatively few large specimens are captured in fish
population surveys even though those surveys are done with
electro-fishing gear and a variety of nets. The goal of fisheries
biologists when sampling fish populations is almost always a
"representative sample" of that population. They are not out
there trying to sample the largest specimens; instead they are trying
to collect a representative sample of all the sizes of fish present
in that population. As a result, fish sampling information may not
include very many large specimens.
As
a matter of fact, anglers may be a better source of information on
large fish in a body of water because anglers target big fish!
Compilations of big fish caught by anglers in contests or angler
recognition programs are great indicators of waters that have big
fish potential. But, keep in mind a couple of things about
information from other anglers: First of all, all anglers except you
and me are liars and sometimes I wonder about you! I am not saying
you cannot obtain solid, reliable information from other anglers,
because you can, but sometimes you have to take some of that
information with a dose of skepticism. Secondly, most anglers follow
the hot bite like a herd of sheep. One water body may be producing
large fish because that is where everyone is fishing. Another body
of water may have equal or even better big fish potential, but word
about it has not hit the front pages, or the internet, yet.
The
best way to determine the best waters with the best big fish
potential is to do your homework. Collect as much information from
as many sources as possible and then use your judgement to come to a
conclusion about which waters have big fish potential. If your goal
is to catch big specimens then those are the waters you want to
target; you want to spend as much time on those waters as possible.
Strategy #2
Understand the nature
of the species. Back to my statement about big fish being hard to
catch because they are so rare--everything has to fall into place for
a fish to reach large size. Large specimens are the ultimate
survivors and the best examples of the species. They will be the
individuals that are the most successful at being a walleye or
bluegill, for example. They are the best of the best; "a walleye's
walleye" or "a bluegill's bluegill". They have mastered the
behavior it takes to survive and become the biggest specimens in the
population. They are the "Uber-walleye" or
"Uber-bluegill".
Study the biology and
behavior of your target fish with the understanding that biology and
behavior is going to be most true for large specimens. Most
important is to understand the seasonal movements, habitat
requirements, feeding behavior and prey that those fish typically
eat. Expect the largest individuals in any population to inhabit the
best habitats with the most prey. Big fish do not grow large by
getting by in marginal habitat, or by working too hard to find prey.
Strategy #3
Find
unpressured fish. Let me say it one more time, big fish are hard to
catch not because they are so smart, but because they are so rare.
Unfortunately, if someone else has beat you to the lake or to the
best spot on a particular lake, they may have already "burned"
the big fish that were there. In the worse case, they have caught
the big specimens and given them a ride home in their pickup. In the
best case, they have caught and released those big fish, but they
will not be as easy to catch the next time.
From what I have just
described, one might conclude that lightly-fished private waters are
the only ones that will produce large fish of most species. While it
may be true that private waters can produce excellent fishing for big
fish, it is not at all true that lightly-fished or private waters are
the ONLY waters that will produce large specimens. Some public
waters, even heavily-fished public waters, can be excellent habitats
that continue to produce large specimens in spite of significant
fishing pressure. On those waters the biggest challenge will be
out-smarting other anglers.
If large specimens are
the best examples of the species and adhere most rigorously to the
habitats and behaviors of that species, would not they be some of the
most predictable and easiest to catch? And, therefore, most of the
big fish on heavily-fished, public waters have already been
"plucked"? Yes, there is a lot of truth to that, but there are
lots of large specimens of a variety of species swimming in
heavily-fished public waters. No, those fish are not smart, even the
largest of them have a brain the size of the end of your little
finger, but that does not mean that they cannot be conditioned by
anglers.
What do I mean by
"conditioned" fish? For example, if the majority of bass anglers
on a particular body of water are throwing ½-ounce spinnerbaits with
white and chartreuse skirts and silver Colorado blades-how many of
the big bass in that body of water have already seen that bait and
even have been hooked at least once? It is likely that most of the
big bass in that body of water have been caught on that or similar
baits at least once and some of them multiple times. Now, I am not
saying that you cannot catch a big bass from that body of water on a
white and chartreuse spinnerbait because some of them will never
learn. I am saying that most of the fish that were vulnerable to
that presentation have already been caught and are less likely to be
taken on that same bait again. Fishing is a game of playing
percentages, to be successful you put the odds in your favor
realizing that there are no "sure things" and you cannot control
everything. In the example I just used, the percentages would likely
favor some other bait for catching big bass.
To catch more big
fish, figuring out how to have an edge on other anglers is at least
as important as figuring out the fish. At times that will mean you
have to identify waters or locations on waters that others are
overlooking. In other situations it will mean you identify different
presentations or strategies to target big fish that have not been
"burned" by other anglers. Remember earlier when I stated that
the water body with the absolute highest numbers of big fish may not
necessarily be the best one to target? Sometimes those waters that
have a reputation also have a lot of fishing pressure, while another
body of water where they may be fewer big fish might be a better bet
because those big fish are less pressured.
Strategy #4
Fish prime times for
big fish. The best time to go fishing is whenever you have time, but
hardly any of us are able to fish all the time. So, to put all the
odds possible in our favor, it is helpful to maximize chances by
recognizing the best times to catch big fish. Knowing the habitat
requirements and seasonal behaviors of the species being pursued will
allow you to identify calendar periods when you are most likely to
catch big fish. Likewise recognition of daily habits and movement
patterns will help in identifying the best times to fish on a daily
basis. Go fishing whenever you can, but make sure you spend as much
time as possible fishing the "prime times".
Depending on the
species, certain times during the year will provide the best
opportunities to contact big fish that are actively feeding. The
times can vary from species to species and that again illustrates why
it is so important to understand the biology and habits of the
species being pursued. For example, early spring, pre-spawn can be a
key time for catching big largemouth bass while late fall might be
one of the best times for big walleyes or muskies.
Likewise on a daily
basis there will be periods when fish are most likely to bite. Big
specimens, being the most successful fish in the population,
especially may be keyed-in to feeding during daily periods when they
can capture the most prey with the least expenditure of energy.
Those big fish may also be the most successful in capturing prey and
therefore their feeding periods may be the smallest windows of
opportunity. Identify the best big fish waters, the best spots on
those big fish waters and then make sure you are on those spots when
those windows of opportunity present themselves.
Strategy #5
Use baits and
presentations that have the greatest appeal to large specimens. I
have a couple of different philosophies on presentations for big
specimens. First of all, recall the earlier example about fish
becoming conditioned to certain popular presentations and baits.
Those baits and presentations are popular because they catch fish.
Most of the popular baits will catch lots of fish, and in the process
you may catch some big specimens. That is a great strategy to use on
waters with lots of big specimens that have not been exposed to a lot
of fishing pressure. But on more heavily-pressured waters, and that
can be almost anywhere these days, you might have to change things up
a bit.
I will never believe
that fish are smart, but the biggest fish in a population may have
learned to avoid certain baits and presentations on heavily-fished
waters. Many anglers have experienced the phenomenon of some new
bait being THE hot bait catching lots of fish for a year or two, but
over time the success of that bait tends to decline. And then the
next new hot bait hits the market and that is THE bait catching all
the fish. That scenario results from fish becoming conditioned to
popular baits and presentations and becoming less likely to bite on
those baits.
I believe that certain
baits and presentations may be easier for fish to learn to avoid.
When fish are actively feeding, there is no doubt they can be caught
on just about anything. At those times the brightest, loudest, most
obvious baits may catch the most fish because all you have to do is
get the fish's attention and you will get bit. But, it may be the
"loudness" or "boldness" of those baits that makes them the
baits that the fish will most likely become conditioned to avoid.
However, did you ever
notice how some of the old favorite baits seem to always catch fish?
Some of those baits remain productive over the years because they get
the fish's attention and get them to bite without putting off lots
of negative cues the fish can learn to avoid. Many of those baits
are more natural-looking or have a very natural action, shape and
color. Of course for fish to bite they first have to find your bait,
so size, sound, color, flash, vibration and movement may all be
important variables in figuring out the best bait and presentation,
but if big specimens are your target, it may be important to keep
those variables as natural as possible. Natural live and dead baits
are as real as possible and in some cases may be the best baits to
use for big specimens. However, in many situations the right
artificial bait will be even more effective for big fish.
My second philosophy
goes back to my statement about the largest individual fish in any
population being the most successful fish in that population. Big
fish are the fish that are most successful in taking in more energy
than they expend-they are the most successful predators. Depending
on the species, and the habitat, that can mean several things. In
some cases the biggest fish will be the most likely to occupy the
best feeding locations. For example, in streams the biggest trout
often occupy the best current seams where the stream flow will bring
them the most food items. In another setting the biggest fish may be
the most likely to take advantage of the largest concentrations of
baitfish in locations where they can easily corner and capture those
baitfish.
As fish grow their
energy requirements increase. If they are to continue to grow and
reach large proportions they must continue to find the food resources
that will give them the greatest return of energy per energy expended
in finding and capturing that food. Big fish can be caught on small
baits, and in some situations small prey items may be so abundant
that they offer the greatest return of energy per energy expended.
But in other cases, larger fish will switch to different prey because
those prey items offer a greater return of energy. Big baits
certainly can mean you are more likely to catch big fish, I believe
that. I also believe that at times big fish may key on different
prey items than the small and medium-size fish in a population. If
you can figure out what that big fish predator/prey relationship is,
you may discover THE KEY to catching lots of big fish in that
particular body of water. If you are targeting big fish and catching
nothing but small and medium-size fish you might try "super-sizing"
your baits and using them in the same areas. That simple change in
strategy may score some big fish, but you may have to go looking for
big fish in different areas where they are feeding on an entirely
different prey.
Strategy #6
For the hundredth
time, repeat after me, "big fish are hard to catch not because they
are so smart, but because they are so rare". If you want more big
fish to catch I believe this last strategy is crucial-release the
big fish you catch! I know public waters in Nebraska that
continually produce big fish for the best anglers that frequent those
waters. Some of those anglers are good "sticks", and if they
kept all the big fish they have caught, there would be a darned lot
less big fish for them to catch now. There is no doubt in my mind
that faithfully releasing big specimens will maintain populations of
big fish to be caught again. Sure some of those big fish will die of
natural causes, but for most species in most habitats, the natural
mortality rate of big fish can be quite low, and may very likely be
much lower than the fishing mortality!
Certain anglers can
put the pieces of the puzzle together so well that they will be very
effective in capturing that small percentage of large specimens
present in a population. Fortunately, by the time most anglers
mature to the point where they regularly catch big fish, they realize
the importance of releasing most, if not all, of the big fish they
catch. In practicing the catch & release of big specimens you
know those big fish are there for you, or perhaps someone else to
catch again. Big fish can be "recycled".
I release big
specimens for selfish reasons-I want to catch them again. But, if
someone else is able to catch a big fish in the process, that is fine
too. I just hope they will also recycle them!
I.D. Tips & Tricks
We asked the Forum's experienced anglers to share their friendly advice to beginning fishermen, and we received a wide assortment of "tips & tricks":
 I see some people just tying a regular 'ol knot... that may work sometimes but maybe learn the different kinds of knots and "how to" tie them. (flathead hunter) A great website to learn dozens of different fishing knots can be found at
http://www.marinews.com/Lindeman-Knot-331.php (duckhntr)
Give the bait a good twitch every now and then when bobber fishing. (holdemplyer)
Wear sunglasses. (thedarkarcher)
Rookie mistake No. 1 would have to be fishing with a bobber that is WAY TOO BIG!!!!! You want a float that is just big enough to float your presentation, that is it, nothing more. I have seen way too many folks use bobbers so big that they could not detect any bites. (Daryl B)
For bluegills, 1/64-oz. or 1/80-oz. jigs have the right size hooks. Tip it with a piece of nightcrawler, or a power wiggler, or use a nice dressed jig with a 1 inch tube or hair tied on the hook works. Light tackle is needed to cast these small jigs -- no more than a limp 6 lb. test line and 4 lb is better. You can add a small bobber to help add weight for casting. I also will slide a 1/64-oz. jig up the line, then tie another to the end of the line. Grab the sliding jig with one hand about 12 to 18 inches from the tied jig, make a loop and pull it thru twice, then wet and snug the knot. You now have 1/32 oz. of weight you can cast without a bobber. You will find bluegill swallow jigs less often than conventional hooks.(drcarplove)
When in doubt, fish for bluegill! (holdemplyer)
Set the hook with your wrists using a quick upward snap...don't use your whole arm to set the hook...it takes more time than a wrist snap. (Evenflow)
Only use enough weight to get by with. If you can reach the fish with no weight then use no weight. I know a lot of people want to put on a lot of weight so they can reach the middle of the lake, but more times than not the fish are near shore. (bigjigs)
The sharp dorsal fin spines of a catfish or bullhead can inflict a nasty wound that's prone to infection. To grasp one safely, cup your hand and spread your fingers around the head, avoiding the spines and fins. (OldBaldGuy)
Don't forget, most fish feed upwards, so almost always put your baits above the fish. There are a few times a season where fish will feed downwards, but a good rule of thumb is they feed up. (Reddogs2)
It is very important to understand what the fish you are going for typically feeds on; without that info you would be hard-pressed to catch anything! (jarredbehrendt)
Learn where the fish are during different periods of the year, like when they spawn, sit deep, and the times of day when they are most actively feeding. (jarredbehrendt)
ALWAYS lick your knots! (SKershaw)
Fresh liver works better (for bait) than stinky green liver. (holdemplyer)
Use gloves to lip catfish that are longer than your arm. (thedarkarcher)
In my opinion, stick bobbers work better than the round ones b/c round bobbers create a lot of drag in the water when setting the hook, reducing the chances of a solid hook-up. (bigjigs)
Carry a small first aid kit and familarize yourself with
Fishhook Removal - June 1, 2001 - American Family Physician (AnglerX)
Always bring plenty of snacks/food for the kids. (BowFisher)
Do not kill your minnows when hooking them for bait. Hook in lips, through eye sockets or high behind the dorsal fin. (Musky Dreamin)
If you are not getting any hits, check the bait.
If you are still not getting any hits, move. (vrentropy)
Make sure your hooks are sharp! (vrentropy) Test them--I drag mine across a fingernail, if they do not dig in, if they skip across the nail at all, I use a small file or diamond hook sharpener. You should see my nails after a couple days of hard fishing. I check those hooks every time after pulling loose from a snag, and if you are fishing around rocks or some other hard cover object, check them often. Yes, I even do that with treble hooks--either sharpen them or change 'em out for ones that are sharp! (Daryl B)
You won't catch fish when your bait/hook/lure is out of the water while you're stuck in a tree, trying to tie knots, or jabberjawing about something instead of fishing. (brad)
Always use a hook of the appropriate size for the fish you are after. You're not going to catch very many bluegill with a 2/0 bass worm hook. (Rick)
Use the lightest line you can get away with. You will get longer casts and better action out of your baits/lures. There is one exception, however, if you use too light of line and have to play a fish to complete exhaustion the fish might never recover and die. Some fish are more susceptible, especially in warmer water, like muskies and wipers. (bigjigs)
Can't believe nobody said this yet. Stop throwing rocks in the lake!!!!!! And don't forget the bug repellant, and don't get it on your bait. (cougarw)
Don't fish in a boat with someone that cares more about catching fish than accidentally hooking your face. (thedarkarcher)
Everyone knows what to do when a bobber goes under, but other bobber movements can be just as revealing. If the bobber suddenly lays over on its side, it may mean a fish has taken the bait and is swimming upward. Set the hook! (OldBaldGuy)
Check your reel, line, and rod before making your cast. Loops, bail springs, and being wrapped around the tip are much easier to fix without a big mess! (jfin)
Some of my most painful fishing and camping trips occured when I didn't plan and take appropriate clothing. I can't tell you how many days I've spent fishing freezing because I was wet or because I left my cold weather gear at home. Always plan for the worst weather. (BowFisher)
One of the biggest mistakes I made was trying to use line for more than one season. I am getting a little older, and they have improved monofilament line considerably over the years, but its just not worth it. I am not sure how big the fish was that I lost, but I was bottom fishing for channel cats, and had a real nice hit, run, then...snap. Of course now I get to talk about the one that got away.(fish-n-son)
As you clean and prepare your reels for the fishing season, don't forget the RODS! Take a Q-tip and "roll it" inside your line guides. If some of the cotton catches, replace the guide or use an appropriate sanding material for the guide to "smooth out" the snagger! Also, for those using spinning reels, don't forget to check the line take-up bearing for grooves carved in by the line! (Harold)
Don't be afraid to change locations or tactics if you're not catching fish.(Evenflow)
Good rod holders are essential for big cats. (holdemplyer)
I have been mostly a bank fisherman all my life, and the best thing I ever did was keep a journal, marking date, place, temperature wind strength and direction, and of course number and species of fish on what baits. Years of this allows me to look back and see seasonal trends of species, baits, and locations. (drcarplove)
Keep the line straight between your rod tip and the weight/bait/bobber. It's hard to set the hook effectively when there's slack in the line. (south of 41)
Setting the hooks doesn't have to be an aerobic exercise, unless you're deep sea fishing. The business end of a hook is less than an inch long. If you've kept the slack out of your line, the motion to set the hook should be less than a foot. (OldBaldGuy)
Confidence and adaptability will get you more fish than any single lure! (thedarkarcher)
Make sure your drag is properly set on your reel...I have seen people have fish snap off because their drag was too tight and I have seen people lose fish because their drag was too loose. (Evenflow)
Keep your hands clean of any "unnatural" scents. (holdemplyer)
Always re-tie the knot to your lure or fly after catching a fish.(SKershaw)
Parents should bring toys like bug nets, plastic shovels and pails for the kids to play with when the fishing is slow. (holdemplyer)
Rookie mistake No. 2 would be using a snap swivel because it makes it easy to change baits. The only time, I repeat the ONLY TIME to use a snap swivel is when fishing in-line spinners or some other bait/lure that will twist your line. Snaps by themselves can be a great idea on many crankbaits, but not snap swivels. If you want to change baits, learn to tie knots!(Daryl B)
Know how to tie a good knot and keep an eye on the first few feet of your line because this can fray (especially with softer lines like Berkley XL) and weaken your line. I think most people's stories of "the big one that got away" are caused more by weak knots and frayed line than a big fish pulling hard enough to break the line. (bigjigs)
The number one thing I would tell them is to keep mobile, if you aren't catching any fish in a spot, move on. (jarredbehrendt)
Call in and report jet skiers that are acting retarded in the no wake zone. (thedarkarcher)
When hooking a leech, hold it so that it can attach its sucker to your thumb nail. Once it has attached, slide hook along thumb nail, under sucker and lift up for proper hook placement. (Musky Dreamin)
Don't jerk on the line to try to set the hook when catfishing or bullhead fishing with circle hooks. Let the fish take out some line, then steadily sweep the rod sideways. The fish almost always will hook himself in the corner of the mouth. (OldBaldGuy)
Try to always keep pressure on the fish while you are fighting it, keep a good bend in the rod (keep your rod up), don't give the fish any slack line. (Evenflow)
When fishing for aggressive biters like bluegills or bullheads, they often will swallow the hook. Have a good hook remover handy. One way to prevent this is to use undressed crappie jigs for bullheads with about half a nightcrawler, then set the hook when you feel the bite -- no need to wait 'til they swallow it. (drcarplove)
If people close to you ARE getting hits and you're not, open your mouth and say "Hi." Ask a question or two. Most of us will happily help out. If you see a guy waving a fairy wand (fly rod), you will probably get more and better help. (vrentropy)
Most importantly remember, HAVE FUN! If you're not enjoying yourself, you're probably trying too hard. Sometimes people invent new ways to catch fish by doing it "wrong"! (sqwidbrain)
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