How to Make a Tapered Furled Leader

[SKershaw]

Making a Furled Leader

Attempting to explain this is difficult. Don't hesitate to ask someone (including me!) to see how it is done. Forgive me if I have just made a confusing topic worse.

Materials:
Furling Jig
2 lb. test Mono or Fluorocarbon
Drill
2 – C-hook screws (one in chuck of drill and one in wall)
3 Large paper clips
Forceps
4 oz. pyramid weight
Scissors
Super glue





Preparing to Furl a Leader:

Place jig on a flat surface and give yourself about 8 feet of room past the end of the furling jig. I prefer to have the jig on an angle. This will become intuitive later when we place the leader back on the jig after twisting it one direction.



You will need to place one C-hook screw in the chuck of your drill. Also, the other C-hook screw will need to be placed at least 8-1/2 feet above the floor, preferably in a door jam. Place the drill on a chair or coffee table 8 feet-ish away from the end of the jig. This eliminates trying to find it when it comes time to use it and our hands are full.

Stringing the Jig:

Tie the tag end of the spool of 2 lb. mono or fluorocarbon to a paper clip (I have prepared the paper clip as shown for my personal convenience – older, wiser people can back me up to its validity). I am using blue 2 lb. ice fishing mono for visual purposes.







Now you will begin to “weave” the line on the jig. Here is where actually viewing the process clarifies the mind’s eye as to how it is done.

1)Wrap the spool around the first peg 7 times. The line should be heading toward the end of the jig at this point



2)Continue the line to the second peg and return the line back toward the first peg. When you reach the first peg, loop the line thru the middle of all the wraps and return the line to the second peg. Repeat one more time so that there are 5 strands of line between the first and second pegs.



3)Continue the line around the 3rd peg and to the fourth. Wrap one wrap around the 4th peg past the 3rd peg (on the outside again) and back to the 2nd peg. Loop the line through the middle of the strands at the second peg and return the line passing the fourth peg and on to the fifth peg.

4)Wrap the line around the fifth peg and return to the fourth peg. Loop the line between the strands and back to the fifth peg. You will have 5 strands of line between the fourth and fifth pegs.

5)The fifth strand of line will be heading toward the head of jug (where the hooks are screwed). Place a paper clip on the opposing hook (this hook is empty until now). Wrap the line thru the paper clip and return to the fifth peg. Loop the line between the strands and return to the paper clip. Repeat this step 2 times so that 7 strands of line are between the fifth peg and the paper clip.



6)Tie off the line with 2 or 3 half hitches and cut the line free of the spool



Preparing to Furl First Direction:

You will want the line to remain tight on the jig. However, it is required that you lift the line off of the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th pegs. This will place the line tight between the C-hook screws at the top of the jig and the 3rd peg. You will notice at this point that the “weave” steps down from the top of the jig to the bottom. It will step down in a 7 strand to 5 strands to 3 strand manner on both sides. If you look closely at the following picture, you will see “step down” very subtly.



Place your third paper clip on the line close to the 3rd peg and place the 4 oz. pyramid weigh on the paper clip.





Making the Initial Furl:

With the line held taught, lift the paper clip off of the first C-hook screw. With your arms spread, walk the line toward the drill so the line is in a straight line. This is where the line is pulled taught and the paper clip is placed on the drill.

You will notice that the slant of the jig gives the line a “V” shape from the hook in the jig through the paper clip with the weight and then to the paper clip on the drill. This is good and will ensure that the line is taught while twisting the line.



Begin the drill to twist the leader. You will place the drill on full-tilt for about a minute and thirty seconds. My mentor uses the drill and half-throttle for two and one half minutes. This is whatever you feel comfortable with. The leader will twist and you will scoot forward about 4 inches as the line shortens.



Once you have twisted the appropriate amount of time remove the paper clip from the drill keeping the line tight in your arms and the weight. With tension kept on the line, place the paper clip on the C-hook clamp with the other paper clip. You will find that I have the jig placed between the kitchen table and an arm chair in our living room. I allow the weight to fall against the arm chair since I don’t have a 7 foot wingspan. The weight falling over the chair helps me keep tension as I return the paper clip to the top of the jig.





Grab the weight off the chair (be careful not to the let the weight spin as it is under a lot of pressure from the line to twist back on itself). Keeping the line taught, place the weight on the jig. You will notice that the line is about 3 to 5 inches shorter than when we took it off the jig to use the drill.



Notice that the two strands are still separated. We will be taking the next steps to have the leader furl back onto itself as if we are making a twine of rope.



With the two strands separated, you can see the individual twists in the line. Here is a crummy photo of the “step down” in one section of the line.



Making the Final Furl:

Carefully lift the jig and place it vertically by the C-hook screw in the wall in your door jam. Be careful not to let the weight be displaced and begin to spin prematurely. Transfer the two paper clips from the head of the jig to the C-hook screw in the wall.



Carefully pull the weighted paper clip tight. Place it vertically with the hook in the wall. Loosening your grip on the weight/paper clip, the leader will begin to twist on its own. This is the second round of twisting to make the furled leader. The line is twisting the opposite direction as it was twisted with the drill.






The weight will get to moving pretty fast and the leader will gain the texture of a rope. This is the leader equilibrating with the original twisting of the drill.

At this point you can walk away and let the leader come to equilibrium.

Finishing the Furled Leader:

Remove the weight from the paper clip and the leader will equilibrate further. This is okay. At this point, I run my hand down the leader to see if I got any “pooches” in the line. If you find any, it is because the leader did not have enough tension placed on it somewhere in the process. You will BARELY notice the step downs in thickness.

Tie and over hand knot in the thin end right at the paper clip. This, for me, is an anal, security thing so the leader doesn’t unfurl. Repeat this step for the thick end. Here is what you have when removed from the hooks.









Tie a perfection loop in each end of the leader. You will see that the leader goes from a thick end to a thin end. This is the objective for the “step downs” in the “weaving” process. Snip the tag ends from the perfection loops.



Here are some close ups. I add a drop of super glue to each knot for my own anal security so my knots stay in place.







Here is a “step down” in the leader. You will notice that the “step down” is very difficult to see when the leader is furled. If tension is lost at some point during the process, here is where a “pooch” will happen.



The finished product! Your leader will be about 7-1/2 feet long with the jig that I constructed.



If you want to see it done, let me know and we can arrange for a time to furl some leaders!

For more information, visit this website. He has some drawings that explain the process very well. Bamboo Rodmaking Tips - Articles Area - Making Furled Leaders

[Fly-Boy-Wray]

SWEET!!!






Good post man good post!

[hugefish_80]

Good job Skershaw...I just learned how to make those today. Planning on picking up the board fo rmaking the jig tomorrow. You might want to post instructions for building the jig. I would do it but I left my notes at the old guy's house.

chris

[Chad]

Thanks, Scott!

I haven't had time to read the whole post, so forgive me if you covered my questions.

1) Did you describe how to make the jig?
2) Could we talk more about line - weights, material, etc.? I saw you were using 2lb fluoro, what lb test does that equate to at both ends? What about mono?


My biggest hurdle will be getting the jig complete...

[OldBaldGuy]

Excellent description and illustrations, Scott!

Technically, I think some leader makers use the term "twist" for the drill part and "furl" for the part where the two legs wind together.

The only thing I didn't see, although you allude to it, is the amount of "twist" required, regardless of drill speed. The goal, whether you twist fast or slow, is to twist the length enough to shorten it about 10%. So, if each leg of the "V" is about 90 inches, per your illustration, the two legs when extended (but still untwisted) would be about 180 inches. That translates into twisting the length until it shortens ap. 18 inches, or, as I like to say, 2.5 baby steps forward.

Great work, guy!

[SKershaw]

I am glad it turned out as well as it did. Thankfully, the wife could take some pictures. Also, I need to add some tips and things that have been brought to my attention. I will try to make those changed relatively soon.

The jig construction will be posted in the future as well. For me, wood-working is easier than weaving... evolution has ensured that

[OldBaldGuy]

Originally Posted by Chad

Thanks, Scott!
I haven't had time to read the whole post, so forgive me if you covered my questions.
1) Did you describe how to make the jig?
2) Could we talk more about line - weights, material, etc.? I saw you were using 2lb fluoro, what lb test does that equate to at both ends? What about mono?
My biggest hurdle will be getting the jig complete...

Chad, how did you do with "story problems" when you were a kid in school? Looking just at the butt end, if you have seven strands of 2-lb.-test line in one leg, and seven strands of 2-lb.-test line in a another leg, and you wrap them all together, what time will the train reach Chicago? (A variation of this conundrum is the opposite end, where Scott explains you have three strands in each leg. )

[vrentropy]

Originally Posted by OldBaldGuy

Chad, how did you do with "story problems" when you were a kid in school? Looking just at the butt end, if you have seven strands of 2-lb.-test line in one leg, and seven strands of 2-lb.-test line in a another leg, and you wrap them all together, what time will the train reach Chicago? (A variation of this conundrum is the opposite end, where Scott explains you have three strands in each leg. )

Well, let's see.

At the Butt end:
14 * 2 - ((14 * 2) * .8) [to reduce strength due to the knot] = 7:48 p.m.

At the Tip end:
6 * 2 - ((6 * 2) * .8) [to reduce strength due to the knot] = 1:38 a.m.

How'd I do OBG?

[OldBaldGuy]

I just had to poke Chad a little bit for asking a question about something Scott had described so well in the article.

What are you doing on this thread anyway, Vrentropy? We heard you were prejudiced against furled leaders.

[Chad]

Originally Posted by OldBaldGuy

I just had to poke Chad a little bit for asking a question about something Scott had described so well in the article.

What are you doing on this thread anyway, Vrentropy? We heard you were prejudiced against furled leaders.

I plan to read this thread in its entirety when I'm ready to build the jig and get started. At that time I will be satisfactorily offended. Until then, I'm ignoring your , Rog.

It should be soon though. I've knotted up the leaders you gave me pretty good.

[OldBaldGuy]

Originally Posted by Chad

I plan to read this thread in its entirety when I'm ready to build the jig and get started. At that time I will be satisfactorily offended. Until then, I'm ignoring your , Rog.

It should be soon though. I've knotted up the leaders you gave me pretty good.

If it wasn't so much fun to make them yourself, I'd give you a couple more.

[vrentropy]

Originally Posted by OldBaldGuy

What are you doing on this thread anyway, Vrentropy? We heard you were prejudiced against furled leaders.

I always like to learn. Heck, even something like this can serve as a 'bad example'

I am not prejudiced against furled leaders. Just the blue ones.

Actually, I am still in the decision phase. I have one (fluoro) on one of my rods, and I tried a mono one on another rod. So far it doesn't seem that I can feel or see the bites as well with them. Maybe it is just that I have not been getting the bites since I went fishing with you and Chad. Some of that skunk rubbed off or something.

I am still exploring them though. I do like how they cast and how it is not as easy to tie my usual knots. I don't like that the tippet keeps breaking off at the leader terminal loop. It has been doing this very regularly with everything from 4x - 2x tippet material no matter what type of loop I tie to connect. That is quite annoying.

Anyway, this is really a great thread and awesome set of pictures Scott!!!

[dreamin of fishin]

Could you please provide some basic instructions for the jig? How are the pegs numbered since they are in two rows?

[OldBaldGuy]

Originally Posted by dreamin of fishin

Could you please provide some basic instructions for the jig? How are the pegs numbered since they are in two rows?

dreamin, here's how mine is made:

For purposes of this description, think of your board set vertically with the peg side facing you. (That way, we can refer to "top" and "bottom" and "left" and "right.")

Screw in your two cup hooks top left and top right, each an inch or less from the top and about an inch in from each edge.

Place peg #1 (your first wraps will be between the top left cup hook and peg #1) on the left side, 34 inches down from the top.

Place peg #2 further down the left side, 64 inches from the top.

Peg #3, the bottom peg, is centered on the width of the board, 90 inches from the top.

Place peg #4 on the right side of the board, 76 inches from the top.

Place the final peg, #5, on the right side of the board, 50 inches from the top. (Your final wraps will be between peg #5 and the top right cup hook.)

As you look at what you've done, you'll see that these dimensions create a finished leader with 14 strands at the butt end, progressively tapering down to 12 strands, then 10 strands, then 8 strands, and finally 6 strands at the tippet end.

Scott's jig has taller pegs than I use; mine are only 4" high. The height isn't as important as the thickness. You'll want pegs thick enough to allow you to pass a spool of line through the loop created by the peg. Also, be sure to sand the top edges of each peg so that you don't snag the fragile line or thread.

There is nothing sacred about the above dimensions, and as you can see, they're not perfectly symetrical. You can experiment with different tapers all you want. These are good dimensions to start.

Hope this answered your question.

[jarredbehrendt]

awesome! now I just needs to get me some supplies!

[Chad]

Originally Posted by jarredbehrendt

awesome! now I just needs to get me some supplies!

Got mine today over lunch.
One day soon I hope both kids fall asleep at the same time, the lawn doesn't need mowed, the wife doesn't feel like talking, the oil doesn't need to be changed in either of the cars, and a thousand other things don't need doing. Then, I'll get down to business making some leaders.

[Chad]

Originally Posted by Chad

One day soon I hope both kids fall asleep at the same time, the lawn doesn't need mowed, the wife doesn't feel like talking, the oil doesn't need to be changed in either of the cars, and a thousand other things don't need doing. Then, I'll get down to business making some leaders.

Well, it turned out to be a big Saturday - tied a wiper popper, sat on the porch and 'talked' with the wife over coffee, put down new mulch around the trees, spring raked the yard, tilled the garden, changed diapers, drew pictures with the daughter, worked out, and yes, built the jig.

Still need to read Scott's first post...

[OldBaldGuy]

Originally Posted by SKershaw

1)Wrap the spool around the first peg 7 times. The line should be heading toward the end of the jig at this point...

Chad has discovered the need for a correction here -- I skipped right over it when I read it.

When you start making the first set of loops between the cup holder and the first peg, you go from the cup holder paper clip down around the first peg and return to the clip (one round trip), then back down around the first peg and return to the clip (second round trip), then back down around the first peg a third time and return to the clip (third round trip), then go from the clip past the first peg all the way to circle around peg #2.

Three "round trips" plus the final strand down to peg #2 gives you three and a half "loops," a total of seven strands (not turns around the peg).

Each set of loops must have an odd number of strands in order to advance to the next loop because an even number (a complete "round trip") puts you back where you started.

Altogether, each leg of the "V" is comprised of 7 strands (3.5 loops) interlocked with 5 strands (2.5 loops), which, in turn, is interlocked with 3 strands (1.5 loops).

[Chad]

Indeed I mistakingly "wrapped the spool around the first peg 7 times" . The leader turned out great, except for half of the first (thickest) segment, which was comprised of too many strands (15) to twist.

I couldn't figure out why it didn't twist until I drew up a diagram so I wouldn't have to read Scott's whole post again next time. That's when the whole process became more intuitive and I realized my error.

Thanks Rog and Scott. This was a fun project and will serve me well for many years.

[SKershaw]

I apologize for the poor directions for furling. I really have a hard time explaining a process that needs to be shown.

In addition, I timed the article posting at a bad time... right when finals were starting. The daily rectal exams will be over tomorrow and I will be thinking much clearer by then.

Sorry for the inconveniences,

Scott