DIY Guide-Ons??

ydoc · 08-17-2009, 09:44 AM

Thanks to skeeter85 and his DIY boat bunks...

Now here's MY question. I have a small, 14' aluminum boat. For bunks, it just has the two, short, "2x4's" bunks (on edge for support), and the keel-rollers in the middle to guide the boat on the trailer. Depending on the angle of the ramp, I'm rarely able to just "winch" it up and keep it aligned.

Soooo... I've been thinking of either the "post" style (really just PVC pipe) Cabela's Saltwater Series Post Guide-Ons , or the side-bunk style (one-post style Cabela's Mini Bunk Guide-Ons

(Or the two-post style: Cabela's Low Profile Bunk Guide-Ons

I've made/replaced bunks/wooden parts before, so believe I could do that part - but does anyone have any tips/ideas on how to make the mounting brackets/pipe-supports for either style?

I could just buy the kits, but since I'm unemployed, I'm trying to do it "on the cheap".

Thanks!

skeeter85 · 08-17-2009, 01:34 PM

I used to have those on my boats. They were just held on with a U bracket similar to this.

They had some strips of rubber/plastic type material in between the bracket and posts I think to keep it from rotating.

As far as the rest goes, like building them, I haven't a clue.

ydoc · 08-17-2009, 05:33 PM

I'm assuming that one could find some kind of u-bolt mechanism to actually hold the PVC pipe, but I've not yet figured out how to extend it out from the trailer frame.

Might just have to wander down to LOWES/THD/Menards/Ace and see if I can come up with some ideas...

Coop · 08-18-2009, 09:38 AM

Metal conduit works pretty decent for extending out from the trailer frame. With a bender you can shape it to just about any angle you need. This is what I use on my boat. It isn't as rigid as a steel arm, but I don't use them to force the boat into place on the trailer, more so to give an idea of where I am on the trailer. Cover the conduit with PVC to make it more friendly to your boat.

stox4u · 08-18-2009, 10:10 AM

Trailer Parts Superstore - Boat Trailer Bow Guides

stox4u · 08-18-2009, 01:10 PM

Alex T. · 08-28-2009, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Cabela's Saltwater Series Post Guide-Ons ,

I have ones just like these and all they are is an L-shaped piece of metal attached to the trailer frame and a piece of PVC that slides over it. I'm sure you could rig something for very cheap.BTW,probably one of the best purchases I ever made for making loading/unloading easier.

Alex

ydoc · 08-28-2009, 09:50 AM

I've seen them/the kits before... the "part" that I think I'd have the most difficulty creating is how the "L" piece is flat where it lays against the trailer frame.

I'm thinking that I might try to "mash" it some in a vice to create a flat-side to accomplish that.

Once I've done that, some u-bolts and a "plate" for the top of the u-bolt/frame, I think I'll be home free.

During warm-weather, I don't mind wading out to align the boat. But as it - and the water - gets colder, I'm thinking I'd rather stay dry.

But I have to agree, I think guides of SOME KIND are (would be) invaluable to have in the loading process.

Thanks for your post!!

xtreme76 · 08-28-2009, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ydoc

I've seen them/the kits before... the "part" that I think I'd have the most difficulty creating is how the "L" piece is flat where it lays against the trailer frame.

-
I read somewhere in the past of guys rapping the "L" peice in rubber hose so there is rubber between the u-bolts, "L" peice, and the frame. This would keep it from rotating other than "flattening" it. Seems like it would work the rubber would keep it from spinning unless it was hit hard, which in case movement may not be a bad thing. I also remember that they used trampoline legs for the "L" peice.

ydoc · 08-29-2009, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtreme76

-
I read somewhere in the past of guys rapping the "L" peice in rubber hose so there is rubber between the u-bolts, "L" peice, and the frame. This would keep it from rotating other than "flattening" it. Seems like it would work the rubber would keep it from spinning unless it was hit hard, which in case movement may not be a bad thing. I also remember that they used trampoline legs for the "L" peice.

Hmmmm... good idea (wrapping in rubber); might have to go to the "box-store" and see what I can come up with!

My daughter's family have a trampoline in their back yard... I wonder if it would still work if they used it and found a couple of legs missing?

Still, that's a good idea... wonder where I could find a couple of those "legs" cheap? (If I had to buy them from a trampoline mfg., I'm guessing the costs would start to approach buying a kit outright.)

ydoc · 08-30-2009, 09:49 PM

Well, finally got to Lowes to look around at "parts"... and THINK that I may have come up with an idea for less-than-$25 guide-ons!

"MY" biggest problem was the horizontal attachment to the frame rails. What to use? EMT/Conduit would work, but I don't have a bender... and don't know how I would flatten at least one side to hold against the trailer frame so the whole guide won't rotate...

So here's my plan...

I bought a piece of 2" (2-1/2" OD) PVC that I will "notch" enough to fit the frame rail to keep from rolling. Buy four "u-bolts" big enough for the height of the trailer frame AND the PVC. Then buy/use a 90* PVC piece... and then PVC pipe for the upright. Simple huh? Do you see any problems before I get started??

Since I'm going to notch the PVC, I wanted something big enough to allow for the notching AND to limit any flex from the clamps. I have a lightweight boat (14' aluminum), but still didn't want any wimpy-wobbly uprights... so I'm making the whole thing out of 2" (2-1/2" OD) PVC. The only variance to that would be if I could find a 2" to 1-1/2" or 1" reducer/adapter. If I can, then I might use 1-1/2" or 1" uprights.

The first u-bolts I found were 2-1/2", but were only just over 5" tall. By the time I would mount the notched 2-1/2" (OD) PVC and the trailer frame, there wasn't enough u-bolt length. I found some "square" u-bolts that are 3" x 7"... they should work OK.

I've purchased all the parts - including a 10' piece of 2" PVC for less than $25. I'll take pictures as I start the assembly (later this week), and post the results.

Wish me luck!

skeeter85 · 09-02-2009, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ydoc

and don't know how I would flatten at least one side to hold against the trailer frame so the whole guide won't rotate...

You're plan sounds like it would work, but as far as this problem, you don't need to flatten a side. If you torque your U brackets enough, the guide ons won't rotate. You can also put a filler in between like a strip of rubber that will help it grip better so it's not metal on metal. That's the way mine was. I'm sure you could find a strip of rubber in flooring supplies.

ydoc · 09-24-2009, 12:21 PM

OK... I FINALLY got around to taking picture of my "less-than-$25" PVC guide-on's, AND getting them posted to my (public) NEFGA album. But in short, here's what I used:

One 10' piece of 2-1/2" PVC
Four 7" (or 7-1/2"?) reach u-bolts
Two 90* "L's"
Two 2-1/2" PVC caps

I cut the 10' PVC pipe in half. From each 5'-half I eye-balled how high I thought I'd want it to be from the trailer frame and then made the cut.

The shorter piece is to be used to mount to the frame. It doesn't need to be long, just long enough to "reach" the frame and to extend the "L" out far enough to allow the vertical PVC piece to clear the side of the boat.

I again "eye-balled" that measurement and loosely clamped the short piece, "L", and riser to the frame. Once I was satisfied that it was close, I made two marks on either side of the frame where the frame made contact with the PVC.

On both these marks, I used a hacksaw to cut down just the height/depth of the saw blade. I did this to allow the frame-mounted PVC piece a small section to "compress"... in the hope that it would keep the guide-on's from rotating/flopping forward/backward.

I then duplicated the same cuts on the second 5'-piece...

Once installed and clamped down, I secured the PVC pieces and caps with sheet-metal screws. I did that ONLY so that after a couple of trial unloading's/loading's, I could make any adjustments that might be necessary.

The pictures below show the results...

I debated on whether to mount the guide-on's UNDER the frame, or on TOP. If I had mounted them on TOP, then the u-bolt "stems" and nuts would have been on the bottom - and less likely to poke or scratch the boat. I only mounted them to the bottom of the frame... 'cause it was easier to get to the nuts to tighten them!

How do they work? GREAT! I might wish that they were a little more rigid, but gluing them together would probably help that. And if worse-came-to-worse, I could also add a short aluminum brace from the frame-mount piece to the upright. But for now, it works just fine!

If you have any questions, feel free to post here or PM me...

08-17-2009, 09:44 AM	#1 (permalink)
ydoc ydoc has no status. Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 294 Thanks: 423 Thanked 79 Times in 57 Posts	DIY Guide-Ons?? Thanks to skeeter85 and his DIY boat bunks... Now here's MY question. I have a small, 14' aluminum boat. For bunks, it just has the two, short, "2x4's" bunks (on edge for support), and the keel-rollers in the middle to guide the boat on the trailer. Depending on the angle of the ramp, I'm rarely able to just "winch" it up and keep it aligned. Soooo... I've been thinking of either the "post" style (really just PVC pipe) Cabela's Saltwater Series Post Guide-Ons , or the side-bunk style (one-post style Cabela's Mini Bunk Guide-Ons (Or the two-post style: Cabela's Low Profile Bunk Guide-Ons I've made/replaced bunks/wooden parts before, so believe I could do that part - but does anyone have any tips/ideas on how to make the mounting brackets/pipe-supports for either style? I could just buy the kits, but since I'm unemployed, I'm trying to do it "on the cheap". Thanks!

08-17-2009, 01:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
skeeter85 skeeter85 is winter blows Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Bellevue, NE Posts: 970 Thanks: 231 Thanked 284 Times in 186 Posts	I used to have those on my boats. They were just held on with a U bracket similar to this. They had some strips of rubber/plastic type material in between the bracket and posts I think to keep it from rotating. As far as the rest goes, like building them, I haven't a clue. __________________ dave Tell a man there are 100 billion stars in the universe and he will believe you. Tell a man a bench has wet paint and he'll have to touch it to be sure.

08-18-2009, 10:10 AM	#5 (permalink)
stox4u stox4u has no status. Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lincoln Posts: 309 Thanks: 31 Thanked 51 Times in 31 Posts	check these out Trailer Parts Superstore - Boat Trailer Bow Guides

09-24-2009, 12:21 PM	#13 (permalink)
ydoc ydoc has no status. Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 294 Thanks: 423 Thanked 79 Times in 57 Posts	OK... I FINALLY got around to taking picture of my "less-than-$25" PVC guide-on's, AND getting them posted to my (public) NEFGA album. But in short, here's what I used: One 10' piece of 2-1/2" PVC Four 7" (or 7-1/2"?) reach u-bolts Two 90* "L's" Two 2-1/2" PVC caps I cut the 10' PVC pipe in half. From each 5'-half I eye-balled how high I thought I'd want it to be from the trailer frame and then made the cut. The shorter piece is to be used to mount to the frame. It doesn't need to be long, just long enough to "reach" the frame and to extend the "L" out far enough to allow the vertical PVC piece to clear the side of the boat. I again "eye-balled" that measurement and loosely clamped the short piece, "L", and riser to the frame. Once I was satisfied that it was close, I made two marks on either side of the frame where the frame made contact with the PVC. On both these marks, I used a hacksaw to cut down just the height/depth of the saw blade. I did this to allow the frame-mounted PVC piece a small section to "compress"... in the hope that it would keep the guide-on's from rotating/flopping forward/backward. I then duplicated the same cuts on the second 5'-piece... Once installed and clamped down, I secured the PVC pieces and caps with sheet-metal screws. I did that ONLY so that after a couple of trial unloading's/loading's, I could make any adjustments that might be necessary. The pictures below show the results... I debated on whether to mount the guide-on's UNDER the frame, or on TOP. If I had mounted them on TOP, then the u-bolt "stems" and nuts would have been on the bottom - and less likely to poke or scratch the boat. I only mounted them to the bottom of the frame... 'cause it was easier to get to the nuts to tighten them! How do they work? GREAT! I might wish that they were a little more rigid, but gluing them together would probably help that. And if worse-came-to-worse, I could also add a short aluminum brace from the frame-mount piece to the upright. But for now, it works just fine! If you have any questions, feel free to post here or PM me...

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08-17-2009, 05:33 PM	#3 (permalink)
ydoc ydoc has no status. Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 294 Thanks: 423 Thanked 79 Times in 57 Posts	I'm assuming that one could find some kind of u-bolt mechanism to actually hold the PVC pipe, but I've not yet figured out how to extend it out from the trailer frame. Might just have to wander down to LOWES/THD/Menards/Ace and see if I can come up with some ideas...

08-18-2009, 09:38 AM	#4 (permalink)
Coop Coop has no status. Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Omaha Posts: 140 Thanks: 15 Thanked 44 Times in 25 Posts	Metal conduit works pretty decent for extending out from the trailer frame. With a bender you can shape it to just about any angle you need. This is what I use on my boat. It isn't as rigid as a steel arm, but I don't use them to force the boat into place on the trailer, more so to give an idea of where I am on the trailer. Cover the conduit with PVC to make it more friendly to your boat.

08-18-2009, 01:10 PM	#6 (permalink)
stox4u stox4u has no status. Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lincoln Posts: 309 Thanks: 31 Thanked 51 Times in 31 Posts

08-28-2009, 09:50 AM	#8 (permalink)
ydoc ydoc has no status. Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 294 Thanks: 423 Thanked 79 Times in 57 Posts	I've seen them/the kits before... the "part" that I think I'd have the most difficulty creating is how the "L" piece is flat where it lays against the trailer frame. I'm thinking that I might try to "mash" it some in a vice to create a flat-side to accomplish that. Once I've done that, some u-bolts and a "plate" for the top of the u-bolt/frame, I think I'll be home free. During warm-weather, I don't mind wading out to align the boat. But as it - and the water - gets colder, I'm thinking I'd rather stay dry. But I have to agree, I think guides of SOME KIND are (would be) invaluable to have in the loading process. Thanks for your post!!

08-30-2009, 09:49 PM	#11 (permalink)
ydoc ydoc has no status. Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 294 Thanks: 423 Thanked 79 Times in 57 Posts	Well, finally got to Lowes to look around at "parts"... and THINK that I may have come up with an idea for less-than-$25 guide-ons! "MY" biggest problem was the horizontal attachment to the frame rails. What to use? EMT/Conduit would work, but I don't have a bender... and don't know how I would flatten at least one side to hold against the trailer frame so the whole guide won't rotate... So here's my plan... I bought a piece of 2" (2-1/2" OD) PVC that I will "notch" enough to fit the frame rail to keep from rolling. Buy four "u-bolts" big enough for the height of the trailer frame AND the PVC. Then buy/use a 90* PVC piece... and then PVC pipe for the upright. Simple huh? Do you see any problems before I get started?? Since I'm going to notch the PVC, I wanted something big enough to allow for the notching AND to limit any flex from the clamps. I have a lightweight boat (14' aluminum), but still didn't want any wimpy-wobbly uprights... so I'm making the whole thing out of 2" (2-1/2" OD) PVC. The only variance to that would be if I could find a 2" to 1-1/2" or 1" reducer/adapter. If I can, then I might use 1-1/2" or 1" uprights. The first u-bolts I found were 2-1/2", but were only just over 5" tall. By the time I would mount the notched 2-1/2" (OD) PVC and the trailer frame, there wasn't enough u-bolt length. I found some "square" u-bolts that are 3" x 7"... they should work OK. I've purchased all the parts - including a 10' piece of 2" PVC for less than $25. I'll take pictures as I start the assembly (later this week), and post the results. Wish me luck!