Question Does anyone own an Eagle Fishmark 320? - Nebraska Fish and Game Association
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Old 07-14-2009, 09:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Does anyone own an Eagle Fishmark 320?

Just looking for some advice on settings, etc.
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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No, but I have a 480 and have questions also on the settings. Let me know if you figure anything out.
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default I admit, I was hoping someone would respond!

I'll join the blind-leading-the-blind club ...yes, I own a Fishmark 320. That's about as far as it gets. Sorry

Answers to general sonar questions such as sensitivity, ping and chart speed, etc could be answered by most anyone (other than the three of us?) I'd imagine. Maybe between us we could learn from each others successes and failures...at least until someone with actual knowledge chimes in!
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Edwardo, Are you the blind or am I the blind?? I am confused
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default I'll be "blind"

I've found this to be not particularly helpful.


http://www.eaglenav.com/en/Downloads/Product-Emulators/
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I really like mine, I just need to figure it out a little more. One thing I am seeing though, is if I use the Fish ID feature, I show hundreds of fish about 5-6 ft down, just almost constant. Then if I turn fish ID off I see no arches.

Is what Im seeing really fish when Fish ID is on? Does your 320 do that?

I did a factory reset on mine, then I couldnt see anything because the screen was really dark from the poor water clarity (Im assuming). I was in a lake with fairly dirty water.

I think that has something to do with the Clarity feature or the sensitivity. So when i got home I was playing with that. But naturally you cant tell what changes you've made and what they do in your driveway.

My main concern is with the fish id. All those fish that it showed Im wondering if they really were fish at all? Because when i switched it off of fish id it showed no arches.
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A lot of people recommend setting everything while in/around the boat ramp area because it is usually a harder surface, so you know what it should look like. Sensitivity should be set as minimally as possible, enough to see the bottom just clear enough without mucking up the rest. My sensitivity is set around 50%, greyscale at 70%. I use the surface clarity feature set to high.

I'm suspicious of the fish icons, because when fishing in MN you can see 15 feet down and not see a single fish, yet the fish ID will be lit like a Christmas tree. On the other hand, those perfect fish arches are probably a thing of legend as the fish you are marking has to be going completely through the cone and I think swimming in the same direction you are moving. Make sure the transducer is set straight down.

I wish to learn more about interpreting what I am seeing, as I am more interested in depth and structure and properly IDing schools of baitfish.
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markh28 View Post
One thing I am seeing though, is if I use the Fish ID feature, I show hundreds of fish about 5-6 ft down, just almost constant.
Someone told me that if a lake has a well defined thermocline, it will show up as a line of fish, because the sonar detects the subtle difference in the water density due to temp differential. I see that a lot lately on my depth finder too (some older Hummingbird model). At Wildwood last night it was as good as I've ever seen it... 4 feet down, and a solid line of "fish"...
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have one as well... and like most of you are am also playing around with the settings.

I've turned off the fish id, and set the sensitivity down as well... I do get some pretty decent arches though... and the last time I was in a guides boat his sonar looked like it was on demo mode.

For the most part though I use mine to find the drops, holes, and places where fish should be, and don't rely as much on the fish showing up on the sonar.

One thing is apparent though, the owners manual sucks.
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishinwithdad View Post
Someone told me that if a lake has a well defined thermocline, it will show up as a line of fish, because the sonar detects the subtle difference in the water density due to temp differential. I see that a lot lately on my depth finder too (some older Hummingbird model). At Wildwood last night it was as good as I've ever seen it... 4 feet down, and a solid line of "fish"...

OK thats what I was wondering, if it was a "thermocline" or there really is that many fish. I think Im starting to get it figured out.

My brother's humminbird is doing the same thing with the line of fish.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A thermocline may be detectable in a larger body of water, or even some of the sandpit lakes, but here in eastern Nebraska I doubt there would be a noticeable difference to be seen...I think wind at lake depth play a role.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Lovewell in Kansas is where I have seen it. Also, in a fairly deep sandpit lake around here (35 ft+)
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Old 07-17-2009, 08:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Using the manual settings on most locators help to dial up a more accurate picture in most cases. Takes a little practice and time but well worth it. Also if you have (2) locators in your boat with the same transducer frequency, you will need to shut one of them off to eliminate false readings.
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Old 07-17-2009, 11:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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There really isn't any substitute for time on the water. He is some links to some sonar basics though.

Sonar Tutorial | Lowrance

There is a lot of more advanced information here

Hightech Fishing.com with Doc Bruce Samson

Having the manual with you on the water is a good idea as well. There is no single setting that works great in all conditions.
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Old 07-25-2009, 10:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have one. I also use it for ice fishing as I bought the self-leveling transducer for it. (Still doesn't compare to a flasher) Turn the fish I.d. off b/c its worthless. Turn off the auto-sensitivity also. Now, slowly turn up the sensitivity until you start to get alot of clutter on your screen. Now slowly turn it down until most of the clutter goes away. That should be about it, unless you want to tweak the grayline a little, but this is used more for seperating fish from weeds or bottom hugging fish from bottom( which both of these are very hard to do anyways) Fish won't look like the tell-tale arch unless the fish is under the transducer breifly. If the fish is stationary under the boat the sreen will show a neverending line.( unless the fish leaves) If the fish moves in and stays there a while then leaves it will show a very long and stretched out arch.There still might be a somewhat solid clutter band in the 0-3 foot range. Don't worry about trying to see fish in the top 3-4 feet right under the boat. If there are fish there you will find them better fishing for them b/c they should be very active.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:15 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot bigjigs, that seems to be good advice. I was down at the lake saturday and had a little time to play around with it. I agree about the fish id. I turned that off. I think I now have it to where I want it now. The screen was mainly clear, showing the bottom, and an occasional "splotch" of gray in between, which I can only assume were fish it was marking. Very few "arches".
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