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NEFGA's "Beginner's Corner" is full of advice from Forum members who want to help novice anglers of all ages catch their first fish. The emphasis is on simple, inexpensive, yet proven methods you can use to catch Nebraska's most common fish. We may not agree on everything around here, but we all agree fishing is more fun when you catch a fish. Want to know more? Read on. If you still have questions, ask in the NEFGA's Beginner's Corner Forum. Table of Contents
If you're older than 15, chances are you need a license. The regulations differ depending upon where you fish. Good fishermen obey the laws. You can't obey the regulations unless you know what you've caught. NGPC's annual fishing outlook NGPC fish stocking reports NGPC public waters guide Contour maps of Nebraska lakes Concerned about blue-green algae in some lakes? Read this first: When you catch a fish, you have a decision to make. You can release it so you can catch it again next year when it's even bigger, or you can keep it and eat it. If you decide to release it, read this first: If you want to eat it, you'll need to know how to clean it: Knots? This organization, Anglers Legacy, has a wealth of useful information for beginners on its website, including nicely illustrated diagrams of fishing knots. Two of the most useful are the "Uni-knot" (sometimes referred to as the "Duncan loop") and the "Surgeon's loop." Both are clearly depicted on this website: Another organization you need to know about, Recycled Fish, is "all about catching more and bigger fish by taking care of our fisheries. It's about Catch and Release and Selective Harvest, but it's also about everyday stuff like what we put on our lawns and conserving water and energy." If you take their Sportsman's Stewardship Pledge you'll get a free membership and free Stewardship Kit. Although you can spend thousands of dollars on fishing tackle (and some of our Forum members do!), this section of the Beginner's Corner is designed to help you pick out inexpensive basic equipment that will "do the job" but not "break the bank." II.A. Rods & Reels & Line "Spin-cast reels, also called closed-faced reels, are simple to operate. The fishing line is wound on a spool inside the reel; when you press and release a large button, the reel lets out the line. Casting is a matter of releasing the button at the right time. Most youngsters learn to cast in less than 5 minutes. The spin-cast rod has an easy-to-hold pistol grip." --Reprinted with permission from NEBRASKAland Magazine, Vol.79, No.1. (Fishing tackle photos courtesy Slimdog and Canfield's CanoeGuru.) From Carilee: Most beginners will find a "medium" weight outfit - 6-pound test line up to 10- or 12-pound test line -- adequate for many types of fishing in Nebraska. The Zebco 33 is the "classic" medium-weight reel. It has been around for more than 50 years and is the preferred reel in the Youth Fishing Program because of its durability. While often sold in combination with a matching Zebco rod, an inexpensive and almost indestructible alternative is the two-piece, spincast model of the Shakespeare "Ugly Stick." Most beginners find six- to seven-foot rods easiest to cast. Shorter rods provide less leverage when landing large fish, while longer rods are more cumbersome to transport. Almost all the major retailers sell inexpensive spincast combinations that include reels pre-spooled with either six-pound or 8-lb. test monofilament (nylon) line. This will handle a wide variety of Nebraska fishing situations, from panfish (bluegills, crappie, white bass, and perch) to most bass, walleye, channel catfish, and carp. Monofilament line deteriorates with age, however, and develops "memory," meaning old line comes off the reel looking like a loosely coiled Slinky. It's a good idea to replace any line more than a year or two old. Old line also is more likely to become tangled inside a spincast reel. (Please, please dispose of your old line properly, either in an NEFGA recycling bin if one is handy, or wadded up and put in the trash.) One final note on line and reels: you can catch fish that weigh much more than the listed breaking strength of the line if you have the reel's adjustable "drag" set correctly. The "drag" provides mechanical resistance while allowing a fish to pull line from your reel, but it only works correctly if you stop cranking in line while the fish makes its run. While a fish runs and is pulling out line, keep the rod tip pointed up so that the fish is also pulling against the flexibility of the rod. As soon as the fish stops, lift the rod tip higher, then crank in line each time as you lower the rod. While "closed-face" spincast reels generally are considered the easiest for beginners, the second-most-popular style is the versatile "open-faced" spinning reel. Here's a spinning reel tip (and warning of impending doom) from Catfishsteve: When fishing with a spinning reel, it helps to refine your cast and retrieve technique to avoid line twist, loops, and bird nests, especially when using monofilament line. Here's the best way I've found for a beginner or even an old boot to avoid these problems: When you make your cast, as the bait is about to hit the water, point your rod right where your bait is going and lower your rod tip a bit toward the water. DO NOT TURN THE REEL HANDLE YET! Instead, as your bait is sinking and without raising your rod at all, use your "reel" hand (the one not holding the rod) to "flip" (close) the bail on the front for reel to the retrieving postion. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER flip the bail over by turning the crank handle of a spinning reel. This is a sin. Simply allowing your bait to land and then starting to turn the reel handle all willy-nilly is the root of all evil that a fishing reel can possess. (Editor's note: these references to "sin" and "evil," while theologically questionable, indicate how seriously Catfishsteve takes fishing.) So, flip the bail over by hand -- DO NOT TURN THE REEL HANDLE YET -- and slowly raise the rod tip up to about 11 o'clock position. See how this now pulls all of the slack out of your line from the bait, clear to your reel? This simple step on every cast allows you to fish all day without having the reel throw loose loops of line on the reel which will blow up into a bird's nest the size of your head just when you find the very choicest looking patch of water cabbage you've seen all day and go to make the cast that might get you the fish of a lifetime. Allowing slack in your line when starting to crank a spinning reel is a disaster waiting to happen and you will pay for it with your weight in bird's nest eventually if you don't heed my words. You have been warned!! Now, with the bail flipped by hand and your rod pulling up all the slack in your line, YOU MAY NOW START TO BY TAKING A FEW SLOW CRANKS OF YOUR REEL BEFORE LOWERING YOUR ROD TIP DOWN to a normal fishing position and retrieving normally, laying nice even turns of line down on the reel spool as you go, and avoiding all the line loops and twisting that will no doubt blow up and ruin your fishing day eventually. II.B. Hooks & Weights & Bobbers & Swivels Hooks: Everyone knows the classic fish hook is shaped like the letter "J," but when you get to the store to buy hooks, you'll find a bewildering variety of sizes and styles. Three of the most common types are the classic "J," the "treble" with three hook points on one shaft, and the circle hook. While each has its purpose, the classic "J" hook will meet most of your needs as a new angler. (Many Forum members prefer circle hooks for catfish and bullheads, and treble hooks are standard on a variety of artificial lures.)
One common beginner mistake is to use hooks that are too big. Hook sizes range from tiny fly-fishing sizes (#20, #22, and even #24 or smaller) up through #10, #8, #6, etc. (the lower the number, the bigger the hook), then at zero the numbering system reverses to become 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, etc., with larger numbers for larger hooks. You can get a good idea of what size hook to use by looking at how the fish's mouth is built. Some fish, like bluegills and trout, have relatively small mouths and can be caught on the tiniest of hooks, smaller than #8. Crappie have bigger mouths - a #6 or #8 hook works fine - and bass have mouths shaped like buckets; they easily can swallow #4 or #2 hooks. Many Forum members use 1/0 or 2/0 or 3/0 circle hooks for channel catfish; smaller circle hooks work well for bullheads. The thing to remember is that, everything else being equal, you don't want the fish to know that he's biting down on a hook, so it's better to error on the side of too small rather than too big. You can catch a big fish on a small hook, but you can't catch a small fish on a big hook. You've heard the expression "set the hook," meaning a quick jerk or tug when the fish takes the bait? Don't overdo it. All you need to do is impale the last quarter inch of the hook point in the fish's jaw, you don't have to yank him out of his socks! (South of 41's beginner tip is to be sure to take in all the slack in your line so that you can feel the fish before you set the hook.)
Don't try to set the hook if you're using a circle hook because the yanking motion often pulls the circle hook out of the fish's mouth. With a circle hook, let the fish take the bait and run away from you for a few seconds, then begin cranking him in. If the circle hook is sharp, he will hook himself, usually in the front corner of his mouth where the hook will be easy for you to remove. Speaking of sharp hooks, not all of them are, even brand new ones. A properly sharpened hook will leave a white line on your fingernail when you lightly drag the point across the surface of the nail. Many of the best anglers sharpen all their hooks before using them, and resharpen any hooks that have drug or bounced against rocks beneath the water. Weights come in a bewildering variety of shapes and sizes. As a new angler, you'll want to become familiar with at least three styles: "bell" weights that usually have a wire loop to attach them to the line, "egg" weights where the line passes through a hole in the center, and "split shot" commonly made of soft lead (new varieties use non-lead alloys) that can be pinched onto the line. Each has advantages for different types of fishing. The two basic reasons to use weights are to lower the bait to a specific depth or to keep the bait on the bottom. Sometimes no weight is best, while at other times (fishing swift river currents) heavy weights are essential.
Which style and which size depends on the kind of fish you are after, so we'll offer more specific advice in the sections on each species. In general, however, avoid using more weight than you need to cast out the line and to keep your bait at the desired depth. Too much weight can create unnatural resistance when the fish grabs the bait, causing some to spit it back out. The lead-head jig, a combination hook and weight, is Catfishsteve's favorite rig for newbies: My favorite rig when I take someone who is very new to fishing is a simple small, plain lead jig, about 1/16 or 1/32 oz (They come in all sizes and colors at Walmart) fished under a small bobber on about 6 lb test line.
Tie the jig to the end of your line and above it rig up a simple, small bobber 3 or 4 feet up the line. If you can get a bit of help with this at first, a small "slip" bobber is really the ticket with this rig, I like the Wing-It brand bobbers, also found at Walmart. A slip bobber is nice because it slides down to the end of your line with the jig for casting and then it slips up your line to where you want it when you are fishing it. But even any old standard plastic red and white bobber will work just fine as well. I like this rig because your weight and the hook with the bait are all together at the end of your line when you are casting. This makes casting a bit easier for someone as they start out. Plus it's very easy to adjust your bait so it rides as deep or as shallow in the water as you need it to with this rig. You can bait your hook with just about anything. My favorite bait is a small minnow, hooked lightly right in front of the tail. This is much easier and not as gory as hooking minnows in the head, plus I think it's very effective as your minnow is always trying to swim and they stay alive better without hooks in their heads. Get fancy and hook the minnow so he rides upside down for even more effectiveness as he's always trying to get right-side up. Big fish can't resist a struggling minnow!! Bits of earthworms, corn, small leeches (I know, yuck!!) pieces of shrimp, hot dogs, plus many other things make great bait. There is even "natural" plastic bait available (yes, at Walmart!) that comes in many shapes, colors and flavors. These baits are great as there is very little mess and they stay nice and fresh for weeks in your tackle box without you having to worry about keeping it alive. Some days these "fake" live baits will catch more fish than real live bait. Throw this rig out and let it sit so the bait is about halfway to the bottom or so, to start out. You can work your bait in close to stumps or weeds with this rig very easily. That's where the fish are!! This is a great rig on a slightly breezy day as it bounces along on the little waves, or your can throw it out and slowly "jig" it back to you, little by little, if the fish need a bit more teasing to bite. You should get bitten very often fishing like this. The other advantage of this set up is that the little jighead on your hook makes it hard for a fish to swallow the hook, and the little jighead on the hook will usually be sticking out of the fish's mouth when you get him reeled in, and this gives you a handle almost, to work with to carefully remove the hook from the fish's lip. Bobbers also come in many varieties, yet they all serve two common purposes: (1) they let you know when a fish is taking your bait, and (2) they control the depth your bait hangs beneath the surface. As with hooks, many beginners make the mistake of using bobbers that are too big. While a big bobber is sometimes necessary (imagine you're using a small, live bluegill as bait for a catfish; you wouldn't want the bluegill constantly pulling your bobber under water), the larger the bobber the greater resistance a fish will feel when it tries to swim off with your bait. Small bobbers create less resistance.
Examples of three typical bobber styles, each of which comes in a variety of sizes. The problem with conventional "snap-on" bobbers is that they make casting very difficult, if not impossible, when the bobber must be set more than five or six feet above the hook. Experienced anglers get around this problem by using a "slip bobber," which slides down the line toward the hook when they cast, but then the hook and weight slip back through the bobber, once it floats, to a pre-set depth.
Many slip-bobbers come with small piece of string that is tied snugly around the line at whatever depth the angler chooses, or a tiny plastic "stop" that serves the same purpose; a small plastic bead rides between the "stop" and the bobber to allow the bobber to slide freely. ("Slip-bobbering" is a common technique among walleye fishermen because walleye often stay near the bottom in deeper water.) Swivels can be used to perform several functions, but their single biggest benefit is to prevent line twist. Imagine twisting a rope or garden hose until it kinks and forms a series of overlapping loops. The same thing can happen when you fish with monofilament line without using a swivel, and those kinks and loops cause big problems when they tangle inside a closed-face spinning reel.
Swivels come in many sizes, shapes and prices (the least expensive are brass-colored - the most expensive have a ball bearing inside). The basic version has a loop of wire at each end for tying on the line and leader. (A leader is simply a short length of line between the hook/lure and swivel.) Some swivels have a snap connection on one end, similar to a small safety pin. Beginners often mistakenly attach their hook directly to this snap, which rarely works as well as attaching it to the loop end of a snelled hook leader or, even better, separating the swivel from the hook with a length of leader. This also is true for many artificial lures; snapping the lure directly to the snap-swivel - while fast and easy -- can impede the action of the lure, making it less effective. Nail clippers - Cheap nail clippers are the best tool available for clipping off the tag ends of knots in fishing line. Needlenose pliers - There are many tools designed specifically for removing fish hooks from fish, but none is as versatile as an ordinary pair of needlenose pliers. You'll also find them handy for pinching down the barbs of hooks (a requirement at some "catch & release" lakes), for pinching down split-shot weights and re-openning split shot for removal), and for skinning fish while cleaning them. Do not use pliers, however, to grip a fish by the lip unless you plan to keep the fish and eat it. Hook sharpener - Although many excellent anglers never sharpen their hooks, others believe sharpened hooks substantially increase their success rate. The least-expensive tool for sharpening hooks is a common emory board for filing fingernails. Pick up one when you buy your spare nail clipper at the drug store. Stringer - If you're going to keep your fish and eat them, you'll need a way to keep them in the water until you're done fishing. A basic stringer of plastic line costs less than a dollar; the chain-style stringer or plastic line with large "safety pin" style nylon snaps cost less than $10. Be aware that fish rarely survive if they're released after being on a stringer because the stringer usually damages their gills. If you're not going to keep, clean, and eat a fish, it's best to release it immediately. "Tackle box" - A clear plastic box with compartments will help you keep your tackle organized and separated so that you'll be able to find what you need. Do not rush out and buy a big fancy tackle box until you've learned what kind of fishing you enjoy most because tackle boxes and storage systems have become very specialized. The style of tackle box that is perfect for a catfish angler would be almost useless for a bass angler, and vice versa. Plastic grocery bag - While useful for transporting freshly caught fish home from the lake or stream, the primary reason for taking one to your fishing spot is to use it as a litter bag to carry out some of the trash left by people less considerate than you. For years, we've heard "leave your campsite cleaner than you found it." Let's all work to make that true for our fishing sites, too. Member suggestions: From Red: Some ways to prevent this also is to use a is a hook disgorger These can also be found in a tackle shop for $2 or so. They are made for this very problem. It's a plastic device with like a bulb shape on both ends (two different sizes). You slide your line into a slot and slide it down into the fish's mouth and over the hook. Then you push down removing the hook and the hook is protected by the device as you slide it out of the fish's mouth. They work really slick. Or you could try some extra long shank hooks. II.D. You Don't Need a Boat, Even to Fish Big Lakes The following article by Daryl Bauer, NGPC fisheries biologist, appeared in the January, 2001, NEBRASKAland Magazine and is reprinted with permission. Shore-bound anglers should not be intimidated by Nebraska's large reservoirs. Although these reservoirs and their open-water species might make fishing without a boat seem like a waste of time, shore anglers can do very well. To successfully fish from the bank on these large waters, consider these tips: * Concentrate your bank-fishing time to when fish are likely to be near shore. In these reservoirs, fish are often near shore in spring and fall and during daily feeding periods at dawn and dusk or after dark. * Flowing water, including inlets, outlets, and feeder streams, attract feeding fish and bring them close to shore anglers. Points, jetties, dams and flats are other areas where shore anglers can intercept feeding fish. Steep drop-offs near shore also can be good areas to fish. * Pay attention to wind direction. Fish often feed where the wind blows on shore. If the wind blows hard enough and long enough, mud lines and shore currents form key fishing areas. * Get a good pair of chest waders. Wading a few yards from shore means getting closer to feeding fish. * A medium-action, 6-1/2 foot or longer spinning rod works well for long-distance casting. With this rig anglers can use many baits and lures and, if equipped with 8-pound-test line, it will land most fish in Nebraska reservoirs. * Keep lure choice simple. A few jigs, KastMasters, shallow-running crankbaits, rattlebaits, and a topwater lure or two will catch fish almost year-round. Add a few hooks, slip sinkers, and bobbers for still-fishing baits. * Be patient when fishing. * * * * * Float tubes: If you decide to pursue fishing as a hobby, you may want to consider a float tube. This NEFGA article provides some information for beginners: III.A. Getting Started on Channel Catfish
From Chad: Rod/Reel: The ideal setup to chase big channel catfish is a medium/heavy rod paired with a bait casting reel, preferably one with a "clicker" that alerts the angler when a fish has mouthed the bait and is pulling out line. If you don't have this high-end gear on hand, there is no need to give up - a spinning setup with ample heft will also get the job done. Adequate rod/reel combos can be purchased for as little as $20 from any sporting goods store. Line: Whether you select a braided line or monofilament, get something with high test strength. Channel catfish are not line shy, and you are likely to be fishing in low or no light conditions. Twenty to 50 pound test will give you the strength you need to stay in control. Personally, I like the stretch of monofilament over braid to aid in setting circle hooks (discussed under the next section, Terminal Rig). The only time I use braid is when fishing live bait (a better choice on rivers in this author's opinion). With live bait, the lighter, more flexible nature of braid allows baits to move more freely and garner more attention from hungry catfish. Terminal Rig: The slip-sinker rig is ideal. To construct a slip-sinker rig, simply cut an 18-inch length of line and set it aside to use as a leader in a few moments. Slide a one ounce bell sinker onto your main line and then tie a large barrel swivel to the end of the line. Tie the leader to the other end of the barrel swivel. Tie a hook to the terminal end of the leader. For this application I recommend a nickel-sized circle hook with a wide gap.
"Slip-sinker" rig, shown with snelled conventional hook. Bait: Channel catfish will eat just about anything, but there is one bait that out performs any other bait when it comes to big channels - cutbait. Cutbait is simply a fish cut into chunks and placed on a hook. Bring a supply of worms to your local reservoir and catch two or three small fish - species and sizes that can sustain the harvest. Make sure to follow all bag and possession limits. Bluegill make good bait and are typically easy to catch, but any fish "local" to the body of water you are fishing will work great. Cut the fish into chunks as small or large as you like. I favor baits that are just smaller than my wallet. Try to cut the bait at an angle to create the greatest amount of raw/bloody surface area. Chunks should be pierced onto the hook in a corner to avoid crowding the gap. Try to hook a bone or something semi-solid to keep the bait from ripping off the hook during casting. Technique: It doesn't get much easier or more relaxing. Cast out cutbait, put rods in holders, engage clickers, and find a comfortable place to wait for the action to start. If you are using spinning gear, reduce your line drag so that a fish can easily run with the bait, pulling out line from the reel. Depending on your supply of cutbait and your mood, you can refresh your baits as often as every 15 minutes. I like to keep my baits about 10 feet off shore. Many anglers feel the need to cast the bait out as far as they can. But, long casts often separate the bait from the hook and place the hook in less productive locations (see Location/Habitat below). More often than not, I use a little underhand flip to place the bait. When a fish is running with your bait, you will need to resist the urge to set the hook - circle hooks will set automatically from the light resistance provided from the clicker or loose drag. Once the fish has pulled off line for several seconds, simply engage the reel (or tighten the drag on spinning gear) and slowly begin reeling in the fish. Time of Day: The hour that begins with swarms of mosquitoes and the buzz of cicadas and ends with the faint slash of bat flights is when you are most likely to hear your clicker scream. But often it is worth while to fish all night with a flurry of activity during the dawn hour. This is especially true when water temperatures are at their highest in July and August. Seasonality: Ice out to ice up. Location/Habitat: The most likely spots to set up are along windblown shorelines (the wind should be in your face). If the shoreline is a large flat close to deep water, that is even better. Come dusk, channel catfish will leave their deep-water loafing spots and come shallow to cruise shorelines scavenging for food. It won't take long before they come upon your bait. There are times when the angler should move away from the windblown shoreline in favor of other locations such as deep-water channels, creek inflows and flooded terrestrial vegetation. But by and large, these are special circumstances that I will leave to the reader to learn and apply. Conclusion: Channel catfish are one of the largest and most common fish that swim in Nebraska waters. Chasing your trophy is likely to fill years of hot summer nights with lasting memories, good friendships, and quality fish. Enjoy! Member Suggestions/Tips: From Novato: Remember, with circle hooks, just let them take it to the end of the leash and hook themselves...I always use a rod holder with circle hooks and I let them bend it over good before I even touch it. You'll get em in the corner of the mouth. If you're getting pecks but not hooking anything, try another spot, that is little ones or something, not the big boy you're looking for! From LiquidSteel: Cheap hotdog recipe: Cut the dogs into one inch chunks and place them into the jar with the water. Next take your 2 packets of strawberry koolaid and mix them into the jar. Seal the lid on the jar and leave on porch step (in the sun) for 2 days. Place one chunk on a small circle hook, cast into the lake with little to no weight, and be ready. It won't stink when you get it on your hands, but I do know of someone that replaced kool-aid with garlic cloves and had alot of success. From OldBaldGuy: Hot weather Catfish tips from NGPC's Tom Keith -- Nighttime is always the best time to catch catfish and that goes double during the summer months. For channel catfish, try prepared baits, dip baits, chicken or turkey livers, chicken entrails, nightcrawlers, minnows, frogs, sand toads or crawdads. Put the bait near the bottom in five to 15 feet of water near shore and sharpen your cleaning knife. Blue catfish prefer a variety of animal life, such as fishes, immature aquatic insects, crayfish, clams and freshwater mussels. Flathead catfish can be taken on live baits including fish, crayfish, frogs, salamanders, nightcrawlers and large grasshoppers. III.B. Getting Started on Bluegills
Here is advice from Carilee "for a COMPLETE NEWBIE on how to catch a bluegill." Equipment: Where & When: When you get to the lake, walk around the shore a bit and watch for small fish swimming near the shore or making ripples out in the water. Sometimes you can figure out where the fish are that way. A lot of times they will be near a dock, submerged log, or pile of rocks, or if it is sunny they might be where the water is in the shade. Pick a spot where you can walk to the shore easily so if you catch a fish you can get to it. How: Push and hold the button on your reel with your thumb, and watching the hook, swing the pole backwards. When you swing it forward towards the water, let up on the button and the bobber and hook should go out into the water. Make sure before you do this that no one will get hit by your hook. Might take a little practice to learn how to aim! Reel your line a bit so that the reel clicks back to a locked position and you don't have much slack. When your bobber is floating, watch to see if it jerks up and down or moves around on the water. Sometimes it is hard to tell if you have a bite or if it's just the wind. When you think you have a bite watch for a few seconds. If the fish keeps biting or your line gets tight, pull back gently but firmly on your reel. You should be able to tell then if you have hooked a fish, you will feel the tension on the line. Reel the fish in, trying to stay clear of logs or obstructions in the water. If you have several bites and then nothing, reel in to make sure you still have bait on your hook. What to do if you catch a fish: This is what I would tell someone who has never fished before by themselves. from Daryl Bauer, NGPC: From GenericAngler:
Hot weather Bluegill tips from NGPC's Tom Keith - The basic method is to suspend a chunk of nightcrawler or a worm below a bobber and cast it around some weeds growing in the shallows, near a partially submerged tree trunk, or along the side of a log floating in the water. Bluegill also hang along the outside edges of weedbeds where the worm/bobber will work just fine, as will a small safety-pin type lure such as a beetlespin that's made for casting with light spinning equipment. Fly fishermen can catch bluegill on a variety of types of flies, including dry flies (Yellow Humpy, Royal Wulff), wet flies (Improved McGinty, Black Gnat, Woolly Worm), and small deer hair poppers. III.C. Getting Started on Bullheads From Slimdog: Rod & Reel: Bullheads can be caught on any rod & reel combo. For those just starting out I would suggest a Zebco Authentic 33 Combo. The reels come pre-spooled with 10lb test line. With a little care and minor yearly maintenance including new line, these combos will provide enjoyment for many years to come. Terminal Tackle: You don't need much tackle for catching bullheads. Size 6 bait holder or aberdeen hooks with leaders, size 7 snap swivels, and 3/8 or 1/2oz egg sinkers. Aberdeen style hooks have a longer shank that is easier to grasp if a fish swallows the hook. Snap swivels aren't necessary, but they help to reduce line twist as bullheads like to roll as you fight them. Egg style sinkers will allow the line to pass through the weight so when the fish pick up the bait, they don't feel as much resistance. Accessories: There are tons of different accessories designed to make fishing more enjoyable. Forceps or needle nose pliers help aid in quick hook removal. If you are keeping fish, an old pair of leather gloves will help protect your hands from the sharp spines of the pectoral (side) and dorsal (back) fins. If you are bank fish a rod holder is handy to have. If you are planning to keep fish for a meal you'll need a rope or chain stinger or even a 5 gallon bucket. You can use the bucket to carry all the little stuff to the fishing hole as well. Bait: Bullheads can be caught on most any live or prepared bait. In most cases the easiest bait to obtain and fish with is Nightcrawlers. Rigging Up: Put your rod together and run the line through the eyelets pulling out an extra 3-5 feet of line after you have threaded the line through the last eyelet. Slide on 1 egg sinker and then tie on a snap swivel using the knot of your choice. I prefer an improved clinch knot, but beginners should use a knot they can tie and that they have confidence in. Open the snap part of the snap swivel and attach the loop end of one of your hooks w/ leader. That's all there is to it. Where to Fish: Consult the NGPC fishing guide for bodies of water in your area that have bullheads in them. Be sure to note an special size or bag limits for the water you choose. Bullheads can be caught anytime of the day, with those hours aroung dawn and dusk being optimum times. Night fishing can be productive as well. Bullheads like structure. Fish weed line, stumps, brush piles, etc. You don't have to be right in the middle of the slop, but the closer the better. Fishing piers or jetties are good places to start as they are usually near fish holding structure. Fishing for Bullheads: We've got our gear and found a good looking spot to fish. Let's do it! Select a juicy looking crawler from your bait container and thread it on the hook puncturing it several times so it more or less resembles a nice wad or ball of crawler. Locate and cast to a fishy looking spot. Watch your line. When your line stops moving, it is a safe bet that it is on or near the bottom. Engage your reel, place your rod in your rod holder and slowly take up the slack line. Watch your rod tip for (needs description of bite). FISH ON! FISH ON! When you get a good bite slowly remove your rod from the holder and take up any slack. When you feel a bite, pull back sharply to set the hook. You don't want to try and rip his lips off, just pierce the lip with the hook. Play the fish to hand. Only reel when the fish is not taking line, this will help avoid line twist. To land the fish carefully grab just behind the head with a wet hand, avoiding the pectoral and dorsal spines. Only use gloves if you are going to keep the fish. A gloved hand will remove the protective slime coat from the fish leaving it more susceptible to illness or death. Remove the hook as quickly as possible. If hooked to deeply, cut the line as close to the hook as possible. The hook will rust out. After you release your fish or have it on a stringer in the water, bait up and do it again! More Bullhead fishing tips Bullheads have a lot of things going against them. They're ugly, slippery and spiny, and, when caught, they always seem to swallow the hook. But, in many lakes they provide fun for youngsters who are more interested in catching a lot of fish than reeling in a trophy. If you want to introduce a child to fishing, a bullhead pond is a good place to start. Bullheads are active at night, but, in muddy lakes and ponds, they are also can be caught during the day.They are bottom feeders and stir the mud as they look for food with taste sensors on their skin. A bullhead is like a tongue with fins, constantly tasting its surroundings in search of food. Here are some tips for catching bullheads * Natural baits work best. A piece of nightcrawler, fished on the bottom, is the most popular bait. Small minnows, chicken liver and corn will work. * A spin-cast (closed-face reel) rod-and-reel combination with 100 yards of 8-pound-test line, split shot, a few No. 10 hooks, and pliers are the essential equipment for bullhead fishing. * Bullheads are found in pools and backwaters of rivers, in streams and in ponds, lakes, and reservoirs. Larger bullheads can be caught in many Sandhills lakes and some sandpit lakes. Bullheads like cover and often are found in dense vegetation. * Shallow park and private ponds hold many small bullheads.
* Most bullheads are caught from April through November; May and June the best months. * Nebraska has black and yellow bullheads. Black bullheads are more common. * Unless otherwise posted, there's no limit on the number bullheads an angler can keep. III.D. Getting Started on Crappie
Rod/Reel: Light to medium spincast or spinning outfit Line: Two- to four-pound-test line is sufficient, but six- or eight-pound-test line will work fine. (A two-pound crappie is a Master Angler trophy in Nebraska.) Hook / weight / swivel / bobber (the "terminal rig"): Probably the most common crappie fishing rig is a #6 or #8 conventional hook suspended beneath a relatively small bobber. One or two split-shot placed 6-12 inches above the hook will make casting easier and will help hold the bait at the desired depth. Best baits: The most commonly used bait for crappie are small to medium-sized minnows, typically hooked through the skin just in front of the top (dorsal) fin, although some fishermen prefer to hook the minnow through the lips or even upside-down behind the anal fin. However you choose to hook the minnow, hook it shallowly through the skin so that the minnow stays alive and active. Some anglers prefer small (1/16th-1/32nd oz.) lead-head jigs with a minnow as bait, suspended beneath a bobber. Artificial alternatives: An alternative to live bait is to suspend a marabou or soft plastic tube jig (1/8th oz. to 1/32nd oz.) beneath a bobber. This technique works best if there is enough rippling wave action to move the bobber (and jig hanging beneath it) up and down in a lifelike motion. Popular colors for crappie jigs are white, silver, and chartreuse; some anglers insist their crappie jigs also include a bit of red. Small in-line spinner baits and Beetle spins can be very effective, especially as a method to search different areas of a lake in the summer when crappie are more dispersed. Technique: Crappie often tend to "feed up," meaning they like to rise from beneath their prey to attack. They also tend to suspend at some mid-level in the water column rather than cruising the bottom or surface, yet you may occasionally see them breaking the surface as they chase schools of minnows. You can take advantage of these behaviors by suspending your minnow or jig one- to two-feet beneath the surface as you begin crappie fishing, then, adjust the bait downward until you find the level they prefer at that time. (The depth you find them tomorrow may be different than the depth where you found them today.) Although the big schools disperse with warmer summer temperatures, crappie still tend to congregate. When you catch one, keep trying the same area because the chances are excellent that you'll find more nearby. Time of Day: Although crappie can be caught at any time of day during the spring spawning season, they are most active around dawn and dusk when the weather gets hot. Seasonality: Crappie tend to congregate in large schools during the spring spawning season when water temperatures rise to 60-65 degrees, which usually occurs across much of Nebraska around mid-May. These schools often are within easy casting distance of shore anglers, and many times are associated with the tops of trees that have fallen into the water or with other underwater cover that provides protection from bigger fish. Summer crappie fishing from shore is more "hit-or-miss" as the schools disperse - look for underwater cover that extends into deeper water - but bank fishing for crappie picks up again in the fall as they move back into shallower water. Member suggestions: From SlackJaw: I have had great success using a floating light and a couple of lanterns to draw bait fish in at night. Fish near timber, and the clearer the water the better. This method will also bring in white bass and walleye. Hot weather Crappie tips from NGPC's Tom Keith - When the weather is very hot, crappie tend to school in deeper water where there is shade, such as under docks, in stump fields, weedbeds and brushpiles. Look in sheltered bays, shallow coves, and along weedlines adjacent to deeper water, rocky reefs, sandbars with abrupt drop-offs or submerged creek channels that provide food and cover. Minnows are the traditional crappie live bait, but they can also be taken on worms, nightcrawlers and leeches. If you prefer to use artificial lures, try beetlespins, small Rapalas, straight-line spinners such as the Mepps or Rooster Tail, Road Runners or white, yellow, chartreuse, or red and yellow marabou crappie jigs. The jigs can be productive fished bare or tipped with a minnow. Crappie also provide excellent night fishing and many people use a lantern or floating, battery-powered automobile headlight to attract fish. The light attracts nocturnal insects and fish congregate to feed on those that fall into the water. III.E. Getting Started on Largemouth Bass
From Harold: GOOD MORNING, FUTURE BASS ANGLERS! "Good Morning, Uncle Harold". Today, we're going to talk about how to catch a Largemouth Bass while fishing from the shore of our local pond. "Cool!" "Awsome!" "NO Way!" To start with, we only need a few things. Of course, a fishing pole and a reel. And something to catch that fish with. We call that a "fishing lure". There are MILLIONS of different "fishing lures", but we are going to be using the most famous, best bass catching fishing lure ever invented! The "Mister Twister". I like the black ones.
We have three parts to our "lure". First, the jighead, the curley tail, and the "spinner". If there are lots of weeds, we will connect our jig to the spinner- which will help us reel throught the weeds with a lesser chance of getting "caught" in them! We can greatly improve our chances of catching that bass if we practice "fancasting". Because the largemouth bass are found around weeds, trees, rocks and other "structure", casting straight out into the open water will be less successful than fishing close to the shore, and "fanning out" at angles to the shore:
If we don't have success in our first "spot", move to the next closest opening, and "fan cast" from there. You won't make it all the way around that local pond without catching at least ONE largemouth bass! Unless, of course, there are NO largemouth bass in the local pond! Hmmmm.. think maybe I should have thought of that in the beginning? Member Suggestions/Tips: Member shb suggests this website for beginning bass anglers: Member shorty has this tip for removing hooks from deep hoooked Largemouth Bass. No real fish were harmed for these photos. (One will have to pretend that this sock and film canister are the throat of a deep hooked LMB.) This method works extremely well with LMB where you have room to maneuver your index finger and thumb inside the mouth. This method is not recommended for "toothy critters" like musky.
1. Slide your index finger past the crusher teeth and to the inside bend of the hook, align your fingernail along the barb.
2. Push in slightly and away from the side of the throat that the hook is lodged in using your index finger. After pushing in slightly start to use your thumb to turn the hook eyelet or "tie" to turn the hook upside down along side the gills. Pushing inward slightly at first backs the hook out of where it intitially went in, use your fingernail to prevent the barb from doing more damage as you continue to turn the hook.
3. Continue to rotate the hook and push to the side.
4. Once rotated far enough the hook should pop right out with very little damage to the throat. Notice the fingernail covering the barb of the hook.
This might not work for small fish but it sure does work well on a LMB that has swallowed a texas rigged rubber worm deeply and takes roughly the same amount of time to remove the hook as any other place in the mouth. On the bright side you do not need to use needle nose pliers to go through the gills from the outside and this method is extremely quick. III.F. Getting Started on "Winter" Rainbow Trout
In addition to year-round fishing for rainbow trout at several cold-water streams around the state, NGPC stocks "catchable size" (10-inch average) rainbows in many public ponds and lakes around the state each fall. These stockings provide fishing opportunities through the winter and spring. Unlike many states, Nebraska has no special "trout stamp" requirement; you can catch a limit of trout with a standard fishing license. The only exception is the "trout lake" at Two Rivers State Recreation Area where a trout tag ($4 for four trout) is required in addition to the fishing license. From wcbad: Rod/Reel: An Ultra light rod and ultra light to small spinning reel is preferred. I prefer a little more expensive gear (St. Croix Ultra light rod $60 to $80 and Pflueger 6725 spinning reel $60) but any will work. The Shakespeare Ugly Sticks are a good choice for amateurs as they can take a beating and keep on working. The other benefit of this rig is that it can be used for any small- to medium-sized fishing (crappie, bluegill, trout, and perch for example). Line: There are plenty of good monofilaments out there. Choose something in the 4 to 6 lb range if using monofilament. My preference is a braided line however. I have tried numerous lines, and have landed on the Power Pro braided line. Good line. The fact it is braided means you will feel the bite easily as this line does not have any stretch. Terminal rig (Hook / weight / swivel / bobber): For Baits: I like a number 8 hook. Use a 12" to 18" leader tied with a swivel between your leader and your main line. Place a couple of small split shot weights approximately 2' above the hook. Knots: There are many good knots to use. Some favorites are the Palomar Knot (I like this one when tying bare hooks), the Trilene knot (my go to knot for tying main line and leaders to swivels. I also use this knot to tie the leader to the spinner and other lures) and the Uni-knot (a good general all around knot that can be used for any of the above). Here is a great site to find out more about knots: Best baits: Anything from corn to crawlers to Berkley Power Bait. For Power Bait I prefer the power eggs. These are a silicon composite and can be re-used. They are also less messy to work with. Pink and chartreuse colors work well. Artificial alternatives: I have had great success with 1/8 ounce spinners. Rooster tails work very well. I like white bodies with light grey speckles and white dressing. My personal preference is Panther Martins. Several makes are a stable in my pack. I like the holographic fire tiger flies (PMHR-FTOB and PMHF_FTOR), and the brown trout dressed (PMBRT-D) spinners. I have found these at Scheels but selection is limited. You can have them order some in or visit the Panther martin web site at: Technique: With baits, cast and wait. If using power bait, it will float, so your split shot will sit on the bottom, and the bait will float to the distance between the split shot and hook. Spinners: After casting use a slow retrieve (usually only fast enough to get the spinner to spin). Vary your retrieve speed if nothing is biting by gradually increasing the rate of retrieve. Time of Day: I have had success at just about any time of day. Seasonality: These are generally stocked around the second week of October. They will bite from this time until about mid May (depending on the water temperature). Location/Habitat: NGPC puts out a news release each fall announcing the trout stockings across the state. In Omaha, Standing Bear is a good place to catch trout. If fishing from shore at Standing Bear, I have had luck all around the lake. I generally like to fish with the wind at my back when possible. That generally determines where I will fish at. Member Suggestions/Tips:
From Evenflow: Can of whole kernal corn, small slip sinkers (I prefer a small bullet weight), small hook. (fish4bass suggests using "just a few" kernals of corn on the hook.) From TROUTMAN: I have had great luck at Standing Bear with Bass Pro Lazer Eye spinners - particularly gold. I usually cast along the shoreline, much like fishing for bass, using an ultralite rig. Spinners seem to work best when the sun is out. From vrentropy: Trout will feed on the top, on the bottom, or anywhere in the middle. If it resembles food, they will try it. Since they are hatchery trout, if it looks like maybe it might even be a little edible, they will try it. From GenericAngler: 1 kernal of corn should suffice with the following: From tonypof: I have always had good luck with night crawlers on the bottom. The main trick with them, as stated before, is using a very small hook. From LincolnLunger: The past couple years when they stocked trout at Holmes Lake all I ever used was a small Mepps inline spinner or roostertail. I used the #1 size but I think #0 or #00 would work best. After a day or two the trout seem to go deep and I can't seem to catch any on spinners so I bring out the nightcrawlers, just simply tie on a small hook and clip on a couple small split shots about 15 inches above the hook. I do not use bobbers for them because like I said before I think the trout find deeper water once they enter the lake therefor I like to fish on the bottom. III.G. Getting Started on Walleye (also Sauger & "Saugeye")
The following information was provided by Daryl Bauer, NGPC) Rod/Reel: A medium action spinning rod. Line: 8-pound test monofilament line. Hook / weight / swivel / bobber (the "terminal rig"): slip sinkers and a variety of hooks. Best baits: nightcrawlers, minnows and leeches. Artificial alternatives: a variety of jigs from 1/16 to 1/4 ounce, Twister tails, Fuzz-E-Grubs, marabou, bucktail; maybe a couple of crankbaits, Shad Raps, Husky Jerks, Rat-L-Trap. Technique: If you want to kick it up, a good pair of waders would be worth its weight in walleyes. Time of Day & Seasonality: (see Tomich's advice below) Member suggestions: From Tomich: First of all I would find out the main forage for the lake. Lakes such as Big Mac, Elwood and Merritt all have alewives which can make shore fishing easier past the spawn. When the alewives spawn in late June, the walleyes follow them up to the dam and rocky points. They can be caught using spinner baits, usually white or chartruese with large willow blades slow rolling them following the contour. Watch for the alewives on every cast; if you don't see them following your bait, you either are too late or in the wrong area. This bite usually dies off as the sun hits that part of the lake early in the morning. Most lakes in Nebraska have a shad-based forage. Therefore, I prefer baits such as Rapala shad raps or Berkley flicker shads, casting the same areas as mentioned before changing my retrieve on every cast to find the action they want. Shallow flats can also be a good bet in low light hours. Daytime fishing for walleyes can become very tough during summer months as the fish tend to find deeper, cooler water during the heat of the day. Slip bobbers on weed edges can also be a good bet if you can find an area with deeper water nearby. I prefer a 1/16 oz. jig tipped with a jumbo leech, or the new Gulp Alive can also do the trick. Jigs tipped with a twister tail or other plastics, either snap jigged or a very slow retrieve, on rocky or wind blown points early or late in the day can also be a very effective way to catch good numbers of walleye from the shore on just about any lake. Obviously the spawn in mid April to early May on the dam is probably your best chance to catch a trophy walleye from shore. However, make sure the fish are caught in the mouth and not snagged. Remember, snagged fish must be released immediately unharmed. Most people like to cast floating Rapalas or other stick bait parallel to the shore during the spawn; I prefer a very small jig tipped with gulp or other plastics to make the jig more buoyant to slow the fall of the bait. Hope this helps. III.H. Getting Started on Carp by Rick Eades, NGPC urban fisheries specialist Reprinted with permission from NEBRASKAland Magazine, Vol. 79, No. 1...Carp have been called the most underutilized fish in America. In recent years, as catch-and-release fishing has grown in popularity, more anglers have begun fishing for carp. Here are a few basics for novice carp anglers. * Look for carp in shallow weedy bays in lakes and quiet pools and backwaters in rivers. * During summer, carp can often be located by seeing them feeding on the surface. * Carp fishing is best in warmer weather. * Carp feed on the bottom by taste and feel, much like catfish, so naturally scented baits are best. Canned corn is a simple, economical bait that works great. Bread or dough balls work but can be tricky to cast and keep on the hook. Chumming - baiting an area with corn - is very productive. * An open face-spinning reel with 200 yards of 10- to 12-pound test line works in most situations. In clear water, lighter line will be more effective. Hooks should be small (No. 8 or 10) but strong. Carp are very sensitive to resistance and will quickly drop a bait if they feel a weight. Use split shot or a slip sinker that will allow the line to move freely.
* Carp tend to travel in schools, so if you catch one, you'll likely catch a few more. * Unless otherwise posted, there's no limit on carp. Member suggestions: Hot weather Carp tips from NGPC's Tom Keith - One species that I've never had any trouble taking regardless of how hot the weather gets is the carp. Some of the best summertime carp baits are a nightcrawler, shad gizzard, a few kernels of corn, a red wiggler, green worms or doughballs. Look for carp in grassy areas and shallow water near the shoreline. You can use a bobber to help you detect strikes, or you can put a weight a foot or so up the line from the bait and fish on or near the bottom. After you cast, push a Y-shaped stick into the mud along the bank with the fork in the stick just a few inches above the water. Place your rod in the fork a few inches back from the tip and lay the rod down at a sharp angle to the water. Keeping the rod and the line very low will help to keep the line from being blown by the wind. Tighten the line and wait for the tip to tell you when a fish takes the bait. The real fun starts when you hook a carp because they put up a strong fight all the way to shore. III.I. Getting Started on Pike & Muskie From Catfishsteve: Good numbers of pike can be found in Nebraska at the Valentine Refuge lakes and in some of the state's larger reservoirs, especially those in the sandhills. Muskies, considered by some the greatest sport fish in North America -- are found in a few of Nebraska's public waters where they have been stocked. Although limited in number, these few lakes give Nebraska anglers a chance to tangle with what some argue is the greatest sport fish in North America. Check the Nebraska Game and Parks website and this website and forum for recommendations on where to start your quest for pike or muskie. Pike and muskie can grow to well over 40 inches (the minimum requirement for a Master Angler certificate), but most run about half that size or a bit bigger. Pike usually are willing summertime biters where you can find them. Their speed, viciousness toward baits, and savage attacks of lures, as well as being great fighters, make them popular summer targets of many fisherman. Nebraska is at the southern edge of their natural range, so many Nebraska anglers enjoy summer pike fishing trips to Minnesota lakes where they are more prolific. Despite their reputation of being very bony, pike make excellent table fare, and many lakes that have pike could stand have a basketful of smaller, eater-sized pike taken out every now and again. Pike need large, relatively shallow bays with lots of weeds and deeper water nearby. Right after ice out, you can find hungry pike tight against the shoreline before the weeds come up. Once the lake gets weedy later in the summer, if you can find a nice big bay in once of our western reservoirs or Merritt, and you can move out in a boat to where you can still just see the tops of scattered weeds sticking up from the bottom where the botttom is dropping off off to deeper water, you are in prime pike country. Make long casts with a big spinner or spoon and retrieve it in and around those clumps of weeds and you'll be hooked up with one of these voracious water wolves before you know it! Rod/Reel: A good 6'-7' medium to medium-heavy action spinning rod, coupled with a medium sized spnning reel with a good drag, is perfect for the beginning anglers tangling with pike and muskie of 3-6 lbs., which is what you are going to run into in Nebraska most of the time. (You'll be casting a lot when fishing for pike. See my tip on preventing line twist and tangles in the "Tackle section of the Beginner's Corner.) Line: 10-12 lb. test monofilament or 40 lb. test braided line. I like to fish braided line for pike because fishing for pike means fishing in weeds, and the braided line is much better at cutting through the vegetation and letting you pull loose from frequent hangups on the weeds. Plus, braid is thin and enables you to make long casts to get your spinner in front of pike that may be spooked by the approach of the boat. Hook / weight / swivel / bobber (the "terminal rig"): Pike and muskie have teeth!! -- lots of sharp teeth made for catching and eating fish nearly half their own size -- so a wire leader is needed so they won't be able to bite through your line. I like the titanium leaders with good swivels in about 6"-9" length and at least 30 lb. test for pike and muskie fishing. When buying steel leaders, don't buy the cheapest ones on the shelf at the tackle shop. Good quality leaders cost just a couple bucks for a half dozen or so, and they pay off big time when that rare 10- or 15-lb. pike or muskie attacks. Bait: Although these fish are predators, and many are caught each year using live prey fish as bait, most pike and muskie anglers prefer artificial lures. Artificial alternatives: Hands down, for pike and muskie the best lure is also the easiest to use; it's the Mepps bucktail-type spinner in size 4 or size 5. The Black Fury pattern (yellow and white) is very popular. This spinner comes in a variety of traditional blade and dressing colors as well as a number of fluorescent green, pink and red hues. (Some days pike just cannot leave those bright colors alone, while ignoring regular colors.) Blades in silver, copper, or brass with white, black, or red bucktail or natural or dyed squirrel tail dressings are a good place to start. Large spoons in red and white, hammered or plain copper or brass or even yellow and white and other colors can be great pike baits at times. Stick to heavier, quality brand spoons such as Daredevles because they cast better and sink down around the weeds better as you retrieve. Cheaper, lighter spoons often ride up over the weeds too high as you retrieve. Here is a nice selection of good pike baits for someone just starting out.
Try large jigs with plastic or hair bodies or big crankbaits such as Rapala minnow lures or other large crankbaits. Big spinnerbaits can be productive at times, especially those in loud, fluorescent colors. Technique: Whether you're quietly drifting in a boat along submerged weed edges, walking the shoreline, wading, or using a float tube, the basic technique is similar: Cast parallel to the weed edge and allow the lure to sink a bit, even clear to the bottom before you begin your retrieve. Also probe deeper weed beds, which are usually sparser, with long casts and work the lure around, over and through these areas as best you can, tryng to run the bait right up past the weeds without snagging them. Pike hide where they can jump out and nab passing prey. Vary the retrieve speed. Just enough speed to get a good throb out of the spinner blade or sexy wobble out of spoon usually is all that's needed to raise the ire of any nearby pike, however there are days when they prefer either a slower bait or one that's burning along just over the weed tops. Time of Day: Early and late are good as fish move out into shallower and more open areas to ambush smaller fish. Overcast and slightly rainy days can be very good, but pike usually are willing under all but the very brightest sunlight, which can turn them off in some of the clearer waters where they live in. (Clear water usually isn't a problem in the relatively murky depths of most Nebraska lakes. Seasonality: From ice-out through freeze over, any time is good for pike and muskies. Pike can be caught through the winter ice on large live bait or vertical jigging spoons.
From Don "Sandbilly" Cox The tools used in ice fishing have evolved dramatically enabling a much better understanding of what goes on under the ice, mobility to find fish, and cold weather gear extending the amount of time we spend on ice. For someone just starting out, it can be somewhat overwhelming. Best case scenario for beginners would be jumping in with an experienced ice angler for the first several ice outings. Ice Is Never Safe, but can be navigated if you understand it. There are so many variables dealing with ice formations on any given body of water, it is impossible to cover them all. Being prepared for worst case scenarios can save your life. My safety equipment includes a PFD, rope, ice spikes, flashlight, whistle, ice chisel for probing the area in front while walking. Always go with a buddy. Some of the most experienced ice anglers I know have had near death experiences from pushing the limits on ice. Unfortunately I've experienced the loss of a friend from going through while ice fishing. No fish is worth that risk. Always, always go prepared. Other reasons for going with an experienced ice angler: Equipment: Beyond the safety equipment listed above, an absolute must for anyone even thinking about this sport is a pair of ice cleats. You need the ability to get around safely on and off the ice without a trip to the emergency room. A pair of slip-on cleats runs under $10 and in the state of Nebraska , they are a good thing to own even if you don't ice fish. A unique facet of this sport is ice fishing is relatively inexpensive to get started in, especially if you are somewhat creative. For example: The list is endless. Part of being an ice fishing person is re-inventing the wheel. That being said, the manufacturers of ice fishing equipment make it for a reason. Sooner or later most people figure it out. Other important items:
Rod > Reel > Line > Lure = Your connection to a fish An 1/80th oz. jig will not sink tied on 10 lb. mono line. A good drag system and a reverse option reel will increase the chances of landing big fish 100 to 1 when using the small diameter lines of ice fishing. Unforgiving rods produce bounce-off hook sets. "Noodle" rods used in deep water provides poor hook penetration for firm-mouthed fish like walleye. Several ice rod manufactures now print suggested line weight and species for which the rod was designed on the rod blank. Match lures to line and rod weight depending on targeted species. Tip-ups Bait Plastics and scented products are becoming popular by offering additional action and attraction to a lure.
Anglers are finding out what a great sport ice fishing is. Family outings on the ice are huge fun and good for you during these shortened daylight months, but please keep safety on your mind at all times. IV.B. Where to Start: "Iced Trees, Iced Trees Anyone" From Don "Sandbilly" Cox If you ice fish Nebraska, no matter which side or end, there is a good chance you cut on some type of impoundment from time to time. Everything from a stock dam to large reservoirs qualify, and the majority of these impoundments have one tree, two trees, many trees, submerged under water. The importance of trees as habitat is multiplied under ice cover. Metabolisms slow down. Many species tend to group up, including those near the bottom of the food chain, zooplankton. I'm no expert, but my guess would be this is due to less wind-effect water currents. Zooplankton use submerged trees much the same as their next-in-line predators, for protection and food. Feeding zooplankton rise in the water column during low light conditions and drop back down in daylight. With a Vexilar, you can watch it happen in areas where a bazillion of these little critters live. In essence, due to the food chain, they create what we know as the morning and evening bites. Every available fish species in any given body will relate to iced trees. This is not saying every fish in the lake will be in the proximity of a tree. However, at any given time, any lake species may be relating to the food chain described above. Merritt Reservoir is notorious for producing several different fish species from the same tree in the same day. It's not unusual to catch crappie, bluegill, perch, walleye, and channel cats out of the same tree, or even the same hole.
Obviously all trees are not created equal. Key areas like drop offs, points, inside bends, or my favorite, shelter belt corners, can provide multiple species habitat year round. Locating them under the ice is a different story. Submerged trees give off gas as they decay. Tell tale signs, if the ice is clear enough, are bubbles trapped in the ice. Springs, vents, cracks, and heaves can also trap air or give off gas, as do old ice fishermen, so not every air bubble is a tree. If available, a gps with lake chip is an unbelievable tool on ice. I also use paper maps and area pictures of trees when lake levels are low. Word to the wise if using pictures: label each photo as you take it. Just remember on your next ice outing, "There isn't much better in Nebraska impoundments than Iced Trees." IV.C. Ice Fishing Advice from NGPC's "Nebraska Outdoor Notebook" From Tom Keith
...I always figure it's a good idea to get ready ahead of time so I'm not out in the garage at the last minute with a flashlight trying to find the ice auger, tip-ups, or the little pill bottles where I keep my teardrops and ice flies. I also have to remember to talk to the guy at the bait shop and find out when the wax worms and colored Euro larvae will arrive at his store. In Nebraska, bluegill and crappie are commonly taken through the ice, and largemouth bass, walleye, yellow perch, northern pike and trout are frequent catches. Channel catfish are also occasionally taken through the ice. Ice fishing equipment may be as simple or as elaborate as you want it to be. Basically, all you really need is a tool to bore through the ice, some type of rod, line, and bait. To make the hole, a common garden spade, an ice spud, or a hand or power auger can be used, but remember that no ice fishing hole may exceed 10 inches in diameter on any area under the jurisdiction of the Nebraska Game and Parks Commission. This is to ensure that no one steps or falls through a large hole in the ice that has been either partially refrozen, or hidden from view by a thin glaze of ice or blowing snow.
Many ice fishermen use a regular open-water rod for ice fishing, while others use short jigging rods or a series of tip-ups that send up a flag when a fish has taken the bait. There are many types and styles of ice fishing lures, ranging from metal teardrop lures and tiny jigs to metal spoons and slab lures. Wax worms, meal worms, small minnows and large chubs are among the most popular live baits for winter fishing. Ice anglers are allowed to use five lines and a total of 10 hooks. While some ice anglers take a windbreak or ice tent with them to help them keep warm, others prefer to erect a shelter called an ice shanty that roughly resembles an outhouse and usually folds down for easy transport. There are also ice fishing tents readily available at most of the larger sporting goods stores that are easy to transport and can be set up and taken down very quickly. Portable shanties and tents are usually removed from the lake at the close of the each day's fishing. A special $5 permit is required to erect a permanent shelter on state recreation area or wildlife management area lakes. Applications and regulations are available from Nebraska conservation officers, Nebraska Game and Parks Commission offices or by mail at Commission headquarters at P.O. Box 30370, Lincoln, NE, 68503. Other anglers just carry their gear in a used plastic utility or cement bucket. About everything but the auger will fit in there. Everyone has different levels of tolerance when it comes to being comfortable when they are outside in the winter, so the choice of cold-weather clothing is an individual decision. I have learned that layering is the key to my keeping warm on the ice. I am most active when I'm dragging the sled holding all of my gear out onto the ice and putting up the ice tent, so I usually put my heavy coat and maybe a sweater or heavy shirt on the sled and leave it there until after the work is done. Of course, what I choose to wear depends on the temperature and wind, but usually I can get by with a thermo-undershirt, flannel shirt and a vest when I'm moving around. If I put all my warm clothes on at the car, I sweat when I'm getting to my spot and getting set up, and then I'm damp and cold all the time I'm fishing. I always wear insulated rubber or rubber-and-leather boots because if my feet are cold, I'm cold all over. A stocking cap or hat with ear flaps is important, as are a couple of pairs of gloves, so if one pair gets wet you have another available. Other gear thats handy to have when you are ice fishing includes: For more information about ice fishing in Nebraska, anglers can pick up a free copy of the Nebraska Fishing Guide and the free NEBRASKAland Magazines Ice-Fishing Guide, which is available at Nebraska Game and Parks Commission district offices in Lincoln, Omaha, Norfolk, Bassett, North Platte, Kearney, Alliance and the Ak-Sar-Ben Aquarium. It can also be found on the Commission's Web site at Nebraska Game and Parks Commission Homepage.
SECTIONS UNDER DEVELOPMENT: Getting Started on White Bass Getting Started on Wipers Getting Started on Perch Getting Started on Smallmouth Bass |
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